Hi all. Looking for a little advice. I would like to install a vented range hood in my small 88sf kitchen. My 30″ range is backed up against an inside wall but immediately adjacent to an exterior wall. The exterior wall is 8″ thick (4″ brick plus 4″ cinder block).
My plan is to purchase a basic cook top hood, maybe 230 cfm.
For venting, it appears that I have to come up/out of the hood top with either 3 1/4″ x 10″ or 7″ round duct. Once through the upper cabinet, I turn 90 degrees to exit the exterior wall.
Questions: (1) Is 7″ round duct all the way to the outside the best way to go? The guy at the store told me I could go up through the cabinet with 3 1/4″ x 10″ and then downsize to 4″ or 5″ round to exit the wall.
(2) Should I be able to use a 7″ hole saw to cut through my brick & block wall or do I grind out the brick motar, remove a few bricks, cut through the block, insert the 7″ round wall vent and then replace partial bricks on the outside?
Thanks for any advice. Rick
Replies
the hood manufacturer will have the information on how long the duct can be, how large it has to be, and how many 90 degree turns you can make. Look online on the manufacturers installation information to find all that.
Thanks Stacey. The instructions that come with the hood say, "don't downsize the duct", but they don't seem to take into account lthe ength of run. Maybe I'll call the manufacturer on Monday.
Hope to get to Alaska some day.
Rick from NJ
To get thru the brick, it is usuall easier to remove the mortar around the brick. Just buy a masonry or brick chisel, a mini sledge hammer and goggles. Banging mortar with the hammer and chisel will loosen the whole brick. A regular wood chisel or framing hammer won't do. A pointed or smaller point chesel will force itself thru block too.
Thanks Sungod. What I did was, first cut through the plaster and plaster board, then drilled a circle of 1/4" holes in the cinder block and then broke through with hammer and stone chisel. Then I went to the outside and removed 4 bricks by wacking away the mortar with an old screwdriver and hammer.
Rick
Why are you not just going up through the roof? That would save all the elbows to reduce flow and all the work getting through the masonry.
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Thanks Piffin.
I could have gone through the roof since the attic is above the kitchen. But I didn't go through the roof because I thought it could leak and I worried that snow could clog the roof cap. I'm not happy with the one 90 degree turn, but tech support at Nutone said it should not be a problem. I'm using 7" round duct up and out.
I just may go through the roof next time.
Rick
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=90583.8http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=91673.1couple of other threads on similar subject
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Rick - in NJ (where I practice) the IRC essentially requires compliance with manufacturer's instructions. If they say 'don't downsize' then downsizing is undefensible from a code perspective.
Jeff