Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 07:33am | #1

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   David,

   If you've done any sheetmetal work before ,this shouldn't be a problem. Think of it as expensive trim coil. Any trim brake should bend it ,or you can make a poor mans jobsite brake for this little piece. You should be able to get cold rolled copper coils in different weights and widths at any roofing supply yard. The hard copper and the lead coated usually come in sheets and are harder to work with. It looks like you have leadcoat or galvanized metal up there now. I would remove that and grind out new riglets for the step flashing with a 4" grinder, then bend the pieces to shape, the riglet bend should be about 1/2" or 3/4" (dont forget to bend the drip edge down and add a small flair), then tar them to the house and pediment. You can use duct tape to hold it in place until the mastic sets. the riglets get packed with new mortar ( try and match the composition of the old). Sometimes the drip edge bend is tacked to the front of the pediment with small copper nails. Be sure to use copper or the galvanic action will eat the nails. An alternative would be to bend two pan flashings over the pediment ,return them up the wall and then install new counterflashings over that, less complicated bending that way.

   Good luck.

   Richard Max

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 02, 1999 06:35pm | #2

   *Yes - copper is the way to go -- It'll give a rich look and it is easy to work with (you need a brake make a small one with 2x6's and a couple of hinges or borrow one) -- you can slide it under the step flashing and it will have a dramatice effect. Make sure that you add a second piece of flashing to the portion of trim beneath the horizontal trim that is beneath the pediment.all the best -- Dudley

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 03:18am | #3

   *Richard:"Riglet"Is that the term used to describe where you let the flashing into the brick?TIA

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 07:23am | #4

   *Matt,Yep thats it. I'm not sure if thats the correct spelling though. Whats TIA mean?RM

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 08:02am | #5

   *TIA - "Thanks in advance"

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 06:27pm | #6

   *From the picture, it looks like the existing step flashing is a single piece, not individual, overlapping steps. A little more exacting to cut that way, but I think better looking and sometimes you see the vertical overlaps soldered, so that would be an additional chore if needed. Even if you bend from a single piece there will be a small slit where the vertical and horizontal riglets meet as they go into the brick, if you want to be really exactly the slit can be soldered shut.If you do a single stepped piece you can make the roof covering integral as suggested. If you do separate steps they'll need to be installed as counter flashings over the roof piece which must be bent to go up the wall and installed first.Either way, I think you'll wind up with a soldered seam at the peak of the pediment gable and probably at the center of the two stepped sides (or maybe two soldered seams where the center peice or "keystone" overlaps the two sides). Even if you use a separate roof piece with counter flashing over it and decide to bend it at the peak you'll need to solder in a gusset where you've cut the portion that goes up the wall at the peak bend.One way or another I'd guess there will be a soldered seam somewhere. There was one or maybe more than one post on soldering copper. Look in the archives.Basically you can use a heavy soldering iron (electric, gas or heated in a brazier) or a "blue flame" or air acetelyne torch with a small tip. Clean the copper with dilute muriatic acid or a commercial prep/cleaner. Use an appropriate flux. I've used plumber's flux and 50/50 solder successfully. Ask at the roofing supply where you get the copper. Interlocking bends at seams are stronger than simple lap joints and hold the solder better (it doesn't run off down hill).The copper will be a fabulous look.One last thought. When grinding out the old mortar for the step flasing, consider a diamond blade for your grinder. They cut far quicker and cleaner than abrasive wheels. There are dedicated re-pointing blades for this that cut a wide path. Maybe too expensive for one job. I think DeWalt's come out with a cheaper, disposable line of diamond blades at about $7 for a 4.5". Better ones run $30-$50 for that size.

2. 
   David_Moody | Jul 10, 1999 06:35pm | #7

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   I am replacing the trim/moldings of a rotted out pedimented entrance of an older house and the customers would like me to look into copper flashing where the top or cap of the pediment meets the brick wall of the house. The entrance trim is pretty simple and straighforward, but since I've never worked with copper, I've been at a loss as to which way to go. Can anyone tell me how difficult this part of the job might be and where to go for material, etc. The cap is app. 5 inches wide and a total of about 6 feet. The pitch is about 7/12. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks