I’m doing a small additon to my kitchen and am going to have a copper shed roof. My roofing supplier sells coils of heavy copper that is 16″ wide — see any problem with me creating 14″ pans out of this coil stuff — it is very heavy, not the thin gauge stuff like AL coil stock — anyone do anything like this — I have a $1000 brake that I used on the windows that I’d like to get some use out of? Any other tips?tks – all the best – Dudley
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
By considering things like energy-efficient mechanicals, window orientation, and renewable energy sources, homes can be evaluated to meet the energy codes. Here's what the IRC has to say.
Featured Video
Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With ViewrailHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
no bites? advice?
I used some recently for flashing caps on columns and also on a valley. I don't know if the extra thickness contributed but you need to allow for expansion and contraction. A couple of wayward roof nails anchored the valley flashing and caused a buckle. If you follow normal metal roof procedures I think you'll be fine. Copper is soft, easy to bend but also easy to mark.
> you need to allow for expansion and contraction
The rule of thumb I remember is that if you have a copper item 100 inches long and a temperature change of 100 degrees Fahrenheit, the change in the copper is 0.167", or not quite 3/16". Take that 0.167" and multiply it by your distance divided by 100" and by your temperature change divided by 100 F to get the amount your copper will move. The CDA info will show you how to do cleats that let the pans slide up and down.
-- J.S.
What comes to my mind is to get some steel roofing as a pattern. Let someone else do the design, alpha and beta testing, etc. Use their dimensions and shapes as a guide. And any supports (those swiggly wooden pieces) for the commercial stuff will fit your roofing.
My concern about turning 16" stock into 14" roofing is that 1) 2" on each side is not much overlap. Look at the commercially available steel roofing and it has more overlap than that. And 2) 14" O.C. won't line up on anything. But maybe that isn't important - roofing goes into the sheathing anyway.
Turn the 16" stock into 12 or 13" roofing and I'd be feeling better about the overlap.
But maybe I'm not clear on what style you will do. I'm thinking of the steel roofing in which the seams are little hills, an 1" high, coming up at a 45 angle, 1" flat on top and 3" on the base of the trapazoid (in cross-section).
But a simple vertical seam with an overlap is probably easier to DIY out of roll stock.
What pitch do you have? Any snow pack to contend with?
Roll copper is softer than sheet copper. I won't use roll for roofing panels, although some do. You've probably got a 10' brake, so you can't form more than 10' pans. I use either 24" wide sheets, which nets 21" between seams or 18" (I have to rip 36" sheets) which nets 15".
Go here http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/homepage.html and order the book before you start on your roof. There's a lot more to it than what you seem to perceive. It's not rocket science, but there's basic rules to follow to create a leakproof, long lasting roof. I'll be glad to answer specific questions as they come up. Good luck..
Thanks for the site -- I'll get one of the books -- believe this is a pretty easy job as it is only 4.5' foot bump out 10' wide in the front and back of the kitchen -- thought the 16" with a 14" pan would be a nice balance -- I could go the 24" and have a 1.5" fold for a 21" pan. Again, appreciate the tips and the site with the book suggestion.
Roll copper is softer than sheet copper. I won't use roll for roofing panels, although some do.
Really? I can't tell the difference between what I've bought as sheets or rolls. My supplier says they're the same. Now, they do offer "soft" and "hard" as rolls. "Soft" didn't sound good so I don't know what that is. Also the rolls are a lot smaller than "hard" which is a nominal 500 lb roll minimum. 2220 lbs is finally showing up tomorrow.
Is there an industry standard other than "soft" and "hard"? PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
I guess what they stock around here is soft rolls. Rolls would be inconvenient for me to use, so I've never bought copper in that form. I can tell from the look from the ground when a chimney has been flashed with soft copper. Must be a regional thing.
What I should have said was, " I don't think soft copper is appropriate for roofing panels. Roll copper would be fine as long as it's hard copper."
How do you handle those 500lb rolls , Tom? I've got a forklift, but sheets just seem more workable to me.
Edited 4/16/2004 6:22 am ET by greencu
How do you handle those 500lb rolls , Tom? I've got a forklift, but sheets just seem more workable to me.
Good point. As I want to hand form pans a little longer than the sheets, I find the rolls more convenient. But moving them is a pain. This morning, for instance, the tractor-trailer will meet me over on the large road nearby. I'll use a comealong to pull the pallets from his truck on to mine. Can't get a tractor-trailer in here at all.
Fortunately I have a couple of tractor loaders that have no problem moving the rolls. I've devised a roller, not unlike a paper towel holder, for rolling out a length for the pans. Getting 500+ lbs into it is a struggle. But a whole lot easier than using 1000+ lb rolls. I have no idea who buys them. At only 2¢/lb cheaper, I'll pay the difference.
I know what you mean by the color difference between soft and hard. Most of the copper roofers around here seem to prefer the soft. Those rolls are only around 100 lbs. Don't know if they prefer lighter rolls, softer copper, or both. Didn't make much sense to me to put something soft on a roof, but I'm certainly no expert.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Tks to all the commenters -- I was aware of the soft/hard factor -- I going to use the soft. Expansion is a factor as I do not want the wrinkle you would see where the expansion was not sufficient
I might be able to get the best price if I go the 100 pound roll -- have to see. all the best Dudley
The soft copper will wrinkle much worse than the hard. That's how I can tell the difference from a galloping horse.