I got counsel here about the HVLP and bought it on Ebay – now I am starting to get my sea legs on it. I’ve had some success with latex – much more with water and oil based poly.
Here’s my question: Have you guys had success spraying stain? I have 8 popular pre hung doors and several pieces of trim to stain to match cherry and I see on my Graco 4900 that the #1 and I think #2 orifice mention spraying stain. How does that go? This will probably be oil stain. Would this make for a more even coat? Do you wipe it after spraying?
I would like to cheat the learning curve here if you would give me some advice.
Replies
I use commercial grade spray and wipe stains with my HVLP with great success. They can impart much deeper colour (use both dye and pigments for colouration) and dry very quickly. Best to spray light coats and work up to the depth you want; I wipe down with no-lint paper towel after they dry to remove surface residue.
I haven't tried it with consumer grade stains. After trying commercial grade, I've never gone back.
Edited 10/7/2007 2:47 am by observer
Where do you get these commercial grade stains and do you have to buy large quantities? I have read something about these water based finishes raved about with the HVLP, but it's remote to me. I have sprayed Polycrylic Minwax with success. I think what I read didn't rate it very high. This area is sort of remote and all these things have to be imported blindly. Do they have a sealer (or something that "sets up") built in to them? I had a little experience with Prelude wiping stain and it seemed to do that.Thanks for the advice on staying on the light side.
I use this stuff when possible, all you ever need.
http://hydrocote.com/#ggviewer-offsite-nav-8990792Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I looked at the two links given and none of the distributors are close to midwest Illinois. Is it practical to try to match stains by mail? Another question I had. It was mentioned to wipe first with shellac then stain. Does this mean the stain just sits on top of the shellac. Does a certain type of stain have to be used over that?
Highland in Atlanta is where I get stuff now, or Hood in NJ.
I don't know what you refer to about matching, but any stain can match any other with a little mixing of the basic colors.
The shellac should be cut verythin, I sometimes use a 3lb cut ( from the can) and cut that 50/50 or so. Yes some stains do kinda sit on top verses burn in, ut the stains from Hydrocote have a bite ( some of the ingredients indeed are NOT all WB, such as DB and some alcohol) .
What you really need to do, is experiment. We had workshops demonstrating the hydro-cote on Saturday mornings when I was involved in that end of the product back then.
It is very simple, and the gel stains ( I know, you are spraying, but, I'll add this) are super easy to control.
You'll see if you get the primary colors for most work, that you can inter mix or layer, or even tint top coats to get anything you can imagine. I'd start with GoldOak, Red MAhog, Antique Cherry, and maybe an ebony or dark walnut.
Ihave the base concentrates ( you can't buy these from HC, I have them cuz I was a manufacturer) of VDbrown, Bsienna,Rsienna,B umber,R umber,blk, yellow,red,pthalo blue and pthalo green..I can pretty much cover all bases. The mixes from HC will also.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I either buy them at my cabinet hardware supplier or from the paint store I deal with. Available in 1, 4 or 20 litre sizes and tintable for specific colour matching. I've also pretty much given up on standard poly as a finish in favour of catalyzed lacquers. I can stain and get three coats of finish on in a day. This is the line I use: http://www.mlcampbell.com/
I spray NGR stain cut with Acetone. Then shoot it with sealer and a pre cat laquer.
Like you say it can be done in a day.Sometimes poplar needs a wash coat first.Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Poplar tends to blotch like pine with stain. Might want to wipe it down with turpentine or shellac before you hit it. The few times I sprayed stain I had to go back and wipe it to get an even coat.
But, I'm no expert.
I have "stain conditioner" - think that would do it? I'm glad you mentioned this. Blotches would really show on the cherry stain.
fonzie - this is a great forum , but anything finishing go here :
http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/phpBB2/index.php?c=1
there a good bunch , and just kicking around the sight i've learned plenty.
Yep, and they sell TransTint dyes and stains.
agreed i did some dovetails and pinned the tails with dowels soaked in transtint dark walnut dye. added a nice contrast and have not faded a iota ..k.." No matter how flat the pancake , there are always two sides"
Sometimes you CAN go wrong.
Did a bunch of drawers and slides out of BB and shot them with WB tinted with TransTint to make it look like nitro lacquer. Ended up looking like pee color...
what do you think went wrong?? more correctly was it then porportions??.." No matter how flat the pancake , there are always two sides"
Edited 10/7/2007 6:11 pm ET by alias
I used the 5 or 6 drops per gallon like the directions said. BB is funny. Sometimes it'll look like Maple, and sometimes like Birch. I just shoot it clear now and don't get fancy.
good point ALMOST same density, i wonder if there are any gas off factors (urea glue)that happen from baltic birch ply . that would impair such a finish, then again the sun does there own number on those finishes. stay well..k.." No matter how flat the pancake , there are always two sides"
I went to the homestead site and registered - they said they would send a email - never got it and can't register, can't find who to contact on that website. Do you have an in with it?
you can call Jeff directly and ask him. real nice guy and very helpfulFreedom prospers when religion is vibrant and the rule of law under God is acknowledged.
Ronald Reagan /Users/ronaldteti/Desktop/Picture 1.png
Thanks Sancho. I probably pushed a wrong button on the computer. Don't know if this is it either - I used the same username as on this website.
My first suggestion would be have a little patients , but i dont know how long youve waited. Try this fonz.....1-216 - 631-5309 9:30 am-5:30 pm EST. He really seems to be a very nice guy, accomidating in every sense. Try registring again, wait 12-24 hrs in the mean time give him a call . i cant say enough about the sight as far as finishing goes and the chemistry, knowledge of mediums , i have realized a good finisher is worth his weight ..." No matter how flat the pancake , there are always two sides"
Thanks, I'm sure it's a mysterious computer thing.