Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 11, 2000 04:11am | #1

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   .........Ed....wish I was ther looking over your shoulder..but it sounds likeyou got more than a "moisture"
   problem...unless you got a bad batch of plywood, it doesn't like to delaminate , a couple of things

   when they did the overlay roof, maybe they should have replaced the step flashings, if so, then te water runsfown the clapboards, gets dammed between the asphalt shingles and wicked up the back, or running right thru the step flash which may or may not be corroded and full of pin holes..

   forget the caulk..it'll just make things worse

   start at the bottom on one side, pull a couple of the clapboards and pry up the roof shingles until you get a good look at the step flashings..

   if they're gone you can strip back the two layers of shingles and install new flashings and replace the shingles with new ones to match your top layer..

   or you can pop the top layer and install new flashings over the old flashings and then replace the top layer of ashphalt shingles....be very neat and consistent with your steps, they're gonna show...

   Install 15# felt or Tyvek on the sidewall and bring it over the top of your step flashings, cut it neat and keep it above the roof by about an 1 1/2"..

   Now slide a piece of 3/4" board along the top of the shingles and use this as the marking guide to cut the bottoms of your new clapboards...

   use only primed , backprimed, and edge primed clapb'ds..
   These bottom ones that are closest to the roof , we like to get a coat of finish paint on too, esp'cly the bottom that will never se a paint brush again....

   when you get done, you should have an absolutely neat , straight line formed by the cut edge of the bottoms of your clapboards, and this edge shoud be 1/2" to 3/4" above the roof shingles.. the bottoms will stay dry and the roof shingles will too, and dirt and leaves won't get caught there either....

   Naturally, the step flashings are now PROMINENT, so they should be selected with an eye as to how they will look...

   Sometimes we use Black with dark roof shingles, or brown, sometimes we use white, sometimes we use Copper..it all depends on the siding colors, and the roofing colors, we coordinate our drip edge also as to color...these colors are readily available at roofing / siding suppliers as "aluminum coil stock" which comes in many different colors...Copper is available at good hardware stores in rolls, get either 8" or 10" ...
   standard step flash is 5x7in light guage alum. mill finish...ugly as hell and too light to go with the life expectancy of a good roof

   we make our steps of 8" stock and bend it on a sheet metal brake and then cut it into 6" pieces, you need one step for each course of roof shingle, and NO steps should show on the roof..

   Your paint job will last a long time for two reasons, its not getting wet from behind and it isn't sitting with its feet stuck in a bucket of water...

   The alternative can be seen by driving around and looking at any roof where the siding sits on top of the roof shingles..premature rot and failure...

   b hey, but what do I know...JMHO

1. 
   Guest_ | Jan 11, 2000 05:57am | #3

   *ED,Simply changing clapboards overtop of wet, rotting plywood will do no good to the new clapboards, or to the integrity of your structure. Silicone type caulking probably won't fix the problem and will be more of a mess when tearing off later. If you feel you must caulk, use the expanding foam type found in spray cans. It will expand quite a bit so only spray into the voids about 1/2 full; the expansion will fill it up later. This stuff will adhere to about anything; even wet wood. Sunlight will eventually degredate the foam, but it will easily last a few months in direct sunlight (enough time to buy you some piece of mind until a permanent fix can take place).If you think the end wall can survive without sustaining much further damage over the next few months, then wait it out.Check your local weather forcasts and see if the weather is to remain mild for the next few days. Figure out approx. how much time you think you will need to strip off the clapboards and plywood, and to reinstall new. Be realistic, nothing ever goes exactly as planned, and whatever time frame you think you will need, doubling this figure will probably be more accurate. Make sure you have easy access to the materials you will need before tearing off anything. If your supplier is low on the style of clapboards you need, then tearing off the old will certainly put you in a bind!Mike gave you some good advice about roof flashing. Chances are very good that this is your problem, but you won't know for sure until tear off time. However, make sure you have easy access to shingles (that will match in color) and step flashing accessories before starting tear off. It is also quite possible that, if your stud bays were insulated, the insulation may be wet and need replacement too. Studs could also be rotted and new 2x material may be needed to replace the damaged studs or to "sister" them together. If any of these materials are in short supply for you, delay tear off.If you believe the damage to be so extensive that you really don't want to wait it out, and are unsure whether you can do it in a short time frame, then "bite the bullet" and hire someone to come in and change it over. Work crews are much faster than someone going it alone; and the expense you pay out may be minimal to what it may cost you in damages if you delay the matter. If you are experiencing interior damage due to water / moisture penetration, then I would try to get the matter fixed as soon as possible; if not, then waiting a month or so would probably not be so bad.good luck,Davo

2. 
   Ed_Benton | Jan 11, 2000 05:57am | #2

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   Description of my problem; I started out to replace some of the cedar clapboards on my house that had extensive peeling (these areas had been touched up earlier) of the paint. The area in question is a gable end wall with an attached breezeway interconnecting the garage to the house. As I removed the clapboards large areas of the plywood sheathing are delaminating and falling apart, an obvious sign of moisture. Some years ago we had new asphalt shingles applied over the existing shingles including the breezeway roof. Anyway, with the extra thickness of the new shingles the clapboards are in direct contact with shingles. This no doubt provides water from rain/snow etc. an access route to the underlying sheathing.
   My situation/level of experience; I am learning how to do this as I go along-batism by fire so to speak and I am working alone.
   The question; Here in New England the weather has been unusualy mild but could change to it's usual frigid and grim state at any time. Would it be more prudent to replace the bad clapboards and apply lots of caulking compound in hopes of it lasting until the weather warns up in the spring, or should I bite the bullet, strip the clapboards and replace the rotting sheathing underneath now. I am concerned about having large areas of the wall open and exposed to weather should winter finally arrive here. Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated.