Here it is: I plan to install crown molding on a sprayed (popcorn) ceiling, but I’m wondering if this is possible; if so, are there any special techniques that I need to be aware of? Thanks in advance.
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Captain-- snap a chalk line for the ceiling reveal, scrape away the popcorn ( at least as much as possible ) so the crown fits fairly tightly to the ceiling, and caulk the rest. I hope it isn't stain grade.
While you are at it, I'd scrape the entire ceiling ;o)
DARREL510-- No thanks. I did it once, which ended up being once more than I wanted to.
The most sure-fire way to remove the popcorn is to decide to paint the ceiling with a roller, and tell yourself it will be a half-day job. Just watch that crap leap off the ceiling and into your hair, every bit of uncovered furnioture, track it through the house, and of course it's wet with paint.
Do it right, or do it twice.
I would make a mock up to be sure how far out onto the ceiling the crown will lay. Then make a scribe block with a cutting wing made of an old knife blade or grind some other scrap of metal. The blade will run on the ceiling to part the clumps of lumps. Make the shoe of the scribe block that runs along the wall about 14" or so. That way if the sheet rock finish is uneven, the cut won't weave an wander so much.
After making the line, scrape the crap off where the crown will lay.
Excellence is its own reward!
Best way is messiest. Scrape the ceiling flat where the crown goes. Your life will be much easier afterwards.
Will offer a way to make life some easier in that task. Measure the horizontal (along ceiling) width of the crown. Take a hacksaw blade (new, used--don't matter). Scribe line in the middle of the blade to that width, and bend down the ends. Now, cut a peice of wood the same width minus two blade thicknesses, and about 12-18" long. Bolt, clamp, wire, what have you, a broom or extention handle to your popcorn scraper. Now, scrape away. If you are tough enough, you can duct tape the shop vac hose to the contraption, too. But, you'll have to go back and vacuum the floor anyway, so you can skip that step.
Now, if the texture isn't too big, you can sometimes (and, boy do I mean sometimes) get away with "mashing" a bit of 1/2 x 2 or 1x2 into the ceiling. This goes on just past where the crown will hit, and makes a tiny reveal. The tricky part is that the texture will mash only so much (and not nearly enough on the most visible portion of the ceiling). Also, parallel to thte joists, there's almost nothing to grab on to.
Best way of all, is to put tape on the ceiling before the texture goes on, then strip the tape back. Priming the ceiling around the edges is a good step, too.
Here's an alternative -
Just put the crown moulding up there and get it as tight to the ceiling as you can. Then mask the walls below the crown molding. Rent a popcorn sprayer and spray the crown to match the ceiling - it will cover up any unsightly gaps!
:)
Andy
Excellent idea! You must be the guy that sprayed an old clients house with a heavy knock down texture on all the walls and trim and doors for a faux adobe look.
When they called me for a new interior door and asked me to paint it they wanted me to make it look like the rest, most of which was flaking off. They like the flaking seems the guy that sprayed it told them the flaking will only add to the old adobe look.
I had to tell them I wasn't up to such high level work and begged out.
In the words of an old carpenter and my spiritual leader,"It looked like a hammered turd".
I know you were funnin but this guy did it.
Thanks to all for confirming my suspicions! I figured I'd have to scrape some off so it's no big deal. By the way, this room is a bedroom I'm using for my home office.Quality before Quantity
This is your own home?
the scrape the whole darn thing, that stuff is ugly
Here is an easier and may be better looking idea. No, I am not talking about scribing you molding to the popcorn.:)
Figure out where the crown rides on the ceiling. Mist the area and scrape out that portion. Need no chalk line, mock up etc., need not be exact, +/- 1/2" is fine. After you install the crown, Use the crown as a guide and a 1" scraper to go around the ceiling one more time so that you are creating a 1" border on the ceiling. The border is not going to be flat like DW, it will still have a little texture to it. Then you caulk and paint (paint finish I assume). The border gives a better transition and separation from the crown and I think it defines the crown better too.
Thought about your suggestion for a moment... Went and tried it...
It does look much better that way...
Thanks.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Just my 2 cents. You're welcome.
I like that, bet it looks good.
Another thing you can do after the 1" removal is to take a quarter circle off each corner, also adds a little something.
TOMCHARK-- I like your idea! I'll have to try it next time I run into a similar situation. This is one of the reasons I like this forum- I can find great ideas that I don't have to strain my brain to come up with<G>
You all are nuts.
I do this all the time on popcorn and textured ceilings paint grade only. Mark the wall drop around the room then put the crown up. Eyeball the bottom edge to make sure it's straight and caulk between the ceiling and crown. The usual caulk joint is 1/8" or less. Average 1 one room, 2 guys, done in 2 hours collect a check for $500 and on to the next.
Let's not make this harder then it is, we're not launching a man to the moon here.
___________________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?
Thats the way I do it too. Cant really see scraping it down when you can just run a little caulk around the room in about ten minutes. Fine craftsmanship and popcorn ceilings dont usually go together here.
My method of choice, as well (unless stain grade, but then how often do you see popcorn and cherry intermixed?). You can bevel the top edge of the crown as much as your TS will let you, this will reduce the contact area on the crown so you might get a little more snug to the ceiling.
Jon Blakemore
If I remember right, Andy was the one who wallpapered crown moldings. Once I asked him for advice on how to do dentil crowns.
Jason,
This has nothing to do with this thread but I thought you were supposed to get married October 11th.
Joe Carola
Joe,
Yes you are correct, I was supposed to get married Oct. 11, but my mother in law and her mother were involved in a terrible car accident and my fiancee and I spent ten days at the hospital with her mother in its ICU; the grandmother died in the wreck. We had to postpone the wedding until Nov. 15.
Oh and BTW, regarding a recent post about my first hip roof that I never got to respond to, my boss thought it was perfect, and even told me if the guy that was working with me had tried to cut the roof, we would still be working on it.Quality before Quantity
Sorry to hear that Jason. I hope your Mother-in-law is doing well now.
Well Nov 15 is the big day now. It's right around the corner. I just celebrated my 12th anniversary on Sept 28th. It goes fast.
Felt good cutting that Hip Roof Ha?
You'll be doing some framing in Remodeling. It's a different ball game then framing new you'll see.
Keep up the good work and post some pictures.
Joe Carola
Thanks for the advice...I tried the crown against the popcorn but it's just too coarse to allow a good seam at the ceiling. I think I'm really gonna do it right and just scrape off the popcorn to an inch past the top edge of the crown, as TCHARK suggested (I believe). I think the "reveal" will look like a nice touch, and if nothing else, my customers can say "Ooooh, I've never seen that done before."Jason Pharez Construction
Mobile, Alabama
General Carpentry, Home Repairs, and Remodeling
When quality is your only consideration
My fiancee and I installed the crown molding this morning. It was paint grade FJ pine, all inside corners coped. I scraped the ceiling as far out as the trim went onto the ceiling (2"), and got it just smooth enough to let the top edge sit flat. I had some difficulty with the coped joints and the one outside miter, but caulk and putty took care of the insides, and a good burnishing with a nail set cured the outside. (Sorry but time is running short on this room [my office] and the stuff had to go up now.) Overall it looks great and the one coped joint I was worried about looked the best (opposite the door to the room). Thanks for all of your advice.Jason Pharez Construction
Mobile, Alabama
General Carpentry, Home Repairs, and Remodeling
When quality is your only consideration
I have a scraper made by Sandvik that is is just wide enough (2 1/4"?) for the crowns projection. Just a quick run around the room will reveal enough plaster to snug the crown up tight. rg
Dang! Never thought about an ordinary scraper! BTW I used a 1x4 ripped to 2 1/8" with a 30 deg bevel on both ends...it was quick, just not so easy LOL. I'll remember your tip next time. Thanks!Jason Pharez Construction
Mobile, Alabama
General Carpentry, Home Repairs, and Remodeling
When quality is your only consideration