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Crown molding/vaulted ceiling instala…

| Posted in General Discussion on May 18, 2001 04:39am

*
I am trying to install 6″ crown molding on vaulted ceilings, but have no idea how to convert my angle measurements to miter and bevel cuts. I have found charts to do this for standard ceilings, but everyone I contact says I have to just play with the saw and cut peices until I get it right. I doubt this is the way a professional would install molding. There must be some way to convert angles of the ceiling into miter and bevel cuts without having to wast molding. Can anyone give me any ideas or article titles that would help. Thanks, Michael

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Replies

  1. Matthew_Willahan | May 17, 2001 02:58am | #1

    *
    I had this same problems,,, none of this professional would do install the crown molding on vaulted ceilings,, when I worked for a general contractor, and one of the side jobs I ve worked on,, the homeowner asked me about crown molding in their living room which has valted celing, I thought it would be working,, then I talked with that g.c. and he said what the hell are u thinking, are you crazy,, theres no way to do that,, the crown wont attach the excact same curves..

    1. andy_clifford | May 17, 2001 04:12am | #2

      *You can install the crown if you put a cap ontop but that is a separate look other wise theres no other way if what you mean is to install it on all obtuse angles...duh....lol but if you mean to install it on straight 90 deg. walls that leads into a vaulted see my explanation on a previous post here....as in a vaulted ceiling that leads into a flat ceiling.Like in the pix I'm posting it leads to a flat ceiling which I will get you a picture of the upper half that I installed crown on this house I'm building

      1. Ken_Layfield | May 17, 2001 05:44am | #3

        *Michael, Crown moulding installed on a vaulted ceiling is refer to as a rake moulding. To properly do the intersections you must have two slightly different crown moulding profiles. The one is a stock moulding and the other is derived by the slope angle of the ceiling and the wall crown projection angle. Custom cutters are made to match the second profile, so if you want to spend the money it can be done.

        1. Phill_Giles | May 17, 2001 05:50am | #4

          *You left out the part about creating the new profile by shining a bright lamp on the existing moulding at just the right angle and tracing the shadow.

          1. Michael_Rimoldi | May 18, 2001 12:52am | #5

            *Michael, Aside from numerous trig. equations (which I cannot do very well being a former Geography major) I find using a few scraps of the molding as guides to be the best method. Sure, you sacrifice a few dollars of material but it is easier to manipulate a 10-12" piece and cut a few degrees here and there to get it right instead of cutting a full length piece($30.+) wrong by just a few degrees one way or the other. I'm tackling an octagonal "witch's hat" with the next 30 days with about a 5" profile so I can let you know about how many pieces I shorten (read that "destroy") during the process.Good luck.Michael Rimoldi

          2. Michael_McCafferty | May 18, 2001 02:01am | #6

            *Those would be pretty much the type of angles(in the pic) I am working with. So it can obviously be done huh? I guesse my question would be can "I" do it with instruction from someone who already has done it. And where would I get these instructions

          3. Phill_Giles | May 18, 2001 04:25am | #7

            *Well, if you've got moulding scraps, use 'em; but, for experimenting with angles, any old piece of dimension lumber will do - I like to make a "scratcher", a piece of sheet with several finishing nails just through it, to scratch horizontal lines on scrap one-by or two-by and then you have a very precise profile you're trying to match, the lines on the scrap. Remember to write the exact angle you've cut on every test piece, down to fractions of degrees, identify the matching pieces, and try and keep them in pairs - what doesn't work at this corner may be just right for the next.

          4. Joseph_Fusco | May 18, 2001 04:37am | #8

            *Mike,

            Rake moulding width {in terms of x and y} = ecwa = (eave crown wall angle) rsa = (roof slope angle)ecw = (eave crown width) (y) = ((cos((ecwa) (-) (rsa))) * (ecw)) (x) = sqrt(((y2) + ((ecw) * ((sin(ecwa))2))))or in one expression {x}. . . (x) = sqrt(((((cos((ecwa) (-) (rsa))) * (ecw))2) + ((ecw) * ((sin(ecwa))2)))). The wall angle of this crown is. . . a = (sin-1 (((ecw) * (sin(ecwa)))/x))

            Good luck Pisáno!

            View Image © 1999-2001"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

  2. Michael_McCafferty | May 18, 2001 04:39am | #9

    *
    I am trying to install 6" crown molding on vaulted ceilings, but have no idea how to convert my angle measurements to miter and bevel cuts. I have found charts to do this for standard ceilings, but everyone I contact says I have to just play with the saw and cut peices until I get it right. I doubt this is the way a professional would install molding. There must be some way to convert angles of the ceiling into miter and bevel cuts without having to wast molding. Can anyone give me any ideas or article titles that would help. Thanks, Michael

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