Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 21, 1999 03:37am | #1

   *
   David,

   If you find any let me know. I only have had to do it twice and kinda winged it. I wonder if the Japanese would have any translateable info on the subject. they seem to do a lot of flaired roofing details in thier traditional work.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 21, 1999 04:04am | #2

   *Hi David,In the French Canadian Habitant homes, the standard truss and standard rafters can be used.On the top of the standard member, where you want to create the curved upswing, you add a section that gives you the desired effect on the roof line. Use a good quality band saw to create a very smooth curve.The trick comes when you want to install the plywood sheating and you want a smooth line or curve. We use decking screws with the large washers you use for attaching styrofoam sheating. They have a 2" outside diameter and a small 1/4" hole.And then you coordinate the screwing down of the plywood a little at a time as you draw it down.Start from the bottom and slowly work your way up to the top. It doesn't hurt to have bubba standing on top of the sheet as you're screwing it down.It's a joy to do (that's a joke boy) but the esthetics are cool.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 03:00am | #3

   *Gabe-That sounds a bit time consuming, don't you think. Do you really mean you are scabbing the curved piece on "top" of the main rafter. How so?Every architectural drawing I have seen has these tail rafters scabbed at a different pitch on the "side" of the main rafters, either to create a simple double pitch at the overhang or, in your case, a lovley curved overhang.What the pictures don't show is is how to finish off the last rafter at the gable end overhang, where you're looking at this scabbed piece attached to the main rafter-I assume on the inside edge of the rafter. With the scabbed rafter stuck on the side of the main rafter it seems like you would have trouble hiding the two rafters and getting the fascia to look decent on the overhang rafter unless you just box in all the rafter tails. That might me acceptable, but I need open rafters.Where can I find a picture of these French Canadian sliding boards?Thanks.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 03:17am | #4

   *Hi David,Time consuming, You bet.The pieces are scabbed on top with a plywood gusset on both sides.The gable end ladders for shallow sweeps are shaped from 2 x 12 instead of a 2 x 4. This allows enough meat to cut from. On more pronounced sweeps we shape the fascia nailer from laminated layers of plywood.Regardless of the style, the labour is much higher.Something I should mention, is the rafter sits directly onto the exterior wall. In other words, it terminates at the wall, no overhang. The scabbed piece on top goes on to form the overhang.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 05:14am | #5

   *Never built one,but have worked on several.Usually the rafters except for the gable ends (fly rafters) had scabs nailed to the side. I have seen the Fly rafters with scabs nailed to the top and also Fly rafters cut out of 2x several sizes up from the common rafters( used a band saw or jig saw I guess.A lot of times there is a 18 inch overhang with these roofs and the bottom of the decking is exposed.A narrow beadboard was used to deck the curved area and also looked pretty cool from below( although a pain to paint I bet).Once the curve terminates a regular decking takes over.Most of these roofs in this area are a slight bell cast shape and we call that curve the "kick".Impossible to dripe edge properly.All in all,a very cool touch to a house that can make a basic box into some a little more special.Good Luck,Stephen

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 07:11am | #6

   *David,We've built a lot of bell shaped roofs over bay windows and such. If the runs are short enough, we make the rafters out of 3/4" plywood screwed together to make a 1 1/2' thick rafter. For a swoop tail, we bob tail the rafter off plumb with the exterior wall and then make the swoop tail out of 2x12 if it's wide enough. For exposed swoop tails, we use the same process but cut back the bob tail rafter an inch and a half from the outside wall. Then add a bird block between the rafters exposing only the scabbed on swoop tail.For a true curved rafter we gussett two 2x12's together with plywood and then cut to shape. You have to keep removing and adding drywall screws to stay out of the cut path and keep the integrity of the rafter. Always use construction adhesive on the gussetts. I'll say one thing and not two, the valley or hip jacks on a true curved rafter are a real bitch. We never use plywood for decking on these curved roofs. We always use 1x4 lath layed tight together. It's not perfectly curved, but looks that way after the shingles go on. And the 1x4 planes out nicly with the 3/4" decking for any straight runs.We've never done an "onion". Not yet. Anybody know how to do these in a large scale without engineered trusses?Ed. Williams

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 07:27am | #7

   *I do a lot of curved roofs. they are usually small, located over bays.The rise and run is usually about 3'. I whack 'em out of 2x 12's. I normally eyeball a curve, and then cut five of them. I use one against the wall, one for each hip, and one in the center for the common. I then "sheath" them with the bridging stock that they send, thinking I am actually going to use for bridging!The 1 x3 makes for a great curved roofing material. 1x4 will work too. So will 1x6. I just have to use that 1x3 for something besides roof kickers!blue

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 22, 1999 07:30am | #8

   *To all the naysayers: 1x3 makes the best roof kickers! i staple the first one down,and then stagger one and everlay the first. It gives me the proper depth for standing, and a great place to hook my stapler.All that on an osb roof!gasp!blueam I repeating myself?