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Blind nailed corners add a distinctive touch to a siding job. To achieve this I start with a 2×2 and rip a 1/2″ x 1/2″ rabbit out of one corner. Then I attach a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ piece of flashing to the rabbit with a bead of good caulking and some 3/4″ screws. This allows me to nail the flashing to the corner with no nails through the actual wood corner. For a larger corner I start with a 3×3 or a 4×4 (2″x2″ or 3″x3″ rabbit respectively).
Another quality touch that I use is snapping vertical lines at each stud location. When nailing the siding to the house I use my speed square and install the nails(I prefer stainless) in the same location(usually 1 1/8″)
at each stud. This makes your nail rows perfectly straight. A small touch that makes for a premium job.
If I am asked to do beveled siding that miters around the corners (semi-transparent or clear) I order the siding in as long a length as possible. When I miter around the corner I use the same board, achieving grain matches. In some cases this detail gives the impression that the house is carved from solid pieces of wood. It can give a boat like quality to many siding jobs.
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Tell us more, I'm in awe. Sounds like you're taking fine finish to the outside. What upcharge do you reckon it adds to the job?
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These are tips for fine custom homes only as it adds cost to the job. If you mark the location of the studs and believe as I do that the siding should be nailed to the studs, using your speed square to mark the nails does not add significantly to the labor required. However the other options that I mentioned does add to the material cost and labor of the job. The amount of this charge depends on the material and style of each individual job. Most of my jobs are architect driven which means that I only suggest methods and or materials and wait for specifications from the architect.
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Blind nailed corners add a distinctive touch to a siding job. To achieve this I start with a 2x2 and rip a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbit out of one corner. Then I attach a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" piece of flashing to the rabbit with a bead of good caulking and some 3/4" screws. This allows me to nail the flashing to the corner with no nails through the actual wood corner. For a larger corner I start with a 3x3 or a 4x4 (2"x2" or 3"x3" rabbit respectively).
Another quality touch that I use is snapping vertical lines at each stud location. When nailing the siding to the house I use my speed square and install the nails(I prefer stainless) in the same location(usually 1 1/8")
at each stud. This makes your nail rows perfectly straight. A small touch that makes for a premium job.
If I am asked to do beveled siding that miters around the corners (semi-transparent or clear) I order the siding in as long a length as possible. When I miter around the corner I use the same board, achieving grain matches. In some cases this detail gives the impression that the house is carved from solid pieces of wood. It can give a boat like quality to many siding jobs.