Replies

1. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 17, 2007 02:07am | #1

   Here's one idea, make a "box" of 1x stock about 6" long that just slips over the 6x6's,maybe an 1/8" larger than the actual post set it at the right distance below the cut line for your circ saw and screw/nail it to the post temporarily, make your cut all the way around the post and finish w/a hand saw, or  release the "box" and slide it up to the cut line and use it to guide your sawzall blade throught the rest of the cut.

     If the finish height is above your chest level get a good sturdy and steady standing platform to make your cuts, you don't want any kick-back!!

                                                                                             Geoff

1. 
   brownbagg | Apr 17, 2007 02:36am | #2

   dig the hole deeperi do live in Alabama, so my advice might be worthless

2. 
   geoffhazel | Apr 17, 2007 02:36am | #3

   Rent a 16" circ saw at the rental yard for 2-4 hrs and knock 'em out in no time.

1. 
   AllTrade | Apr 17, 2007 02:53am | #5

   using a 16" saw on a step ladder or cutting at face hieght is not fun or safe though for a do it yourselfer. Better be real good with that  saw.

2. 
   Quickstep | Apr 17, 2007 03:40am | #6

   I checked the local rental centers, but so far haven't found the big circ saw.

    

   PS, the posts are only 3-1/2' high, so it should be realtively easy to be safe.

1. 
   Heck | Apr 17, 2007 03:43am | #7

   Use the 'box' guide idea to cut them on all sides with a circular saw, then finish them with a reciprocating saw._______________________________________________________________

   Once upon a midnight dreary, while I pondered weak and weary,Over many a quaint and curious volume of forgotten lore,While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping,As of some one gently rapping, rapping at my chamber door.

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 17, 2007 02:14pm | #11

   me too 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   frenchy | Apr 17, 2007 05:31pm | #13

   geoffhazel

    I second your use of a 16 inch saw!  Initial kick at start up is high but once running it's only a little heavier than a Skilsaw..

    

2. 
   Pierre1 | Apr 17, 2007 02:51am | #4

   Sounds like a big project.

   Make your jig (the box that Geoffrey suggested) big enough so that it can be levelled to your mark, or below your mark by whatever the blade/table offset is. You need some amount of gap space - say 1/4" - to adjust the jig.

   Levelling the jig with a torpedo level (on 2 horizontal axis) is very important, as you can not trust that the 6x6 are absolutely straight, square, plumb. Most will have some defect which can throw your jig - and therefore your cut - out of level.

    

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/16/2007 7:51 pm ET by Pierre1

3. 
   grpphoto | Apr 17, 2007 05:19am | #8

   This is how we used to do it when I did union work in the '70s. Take a tri-square and mark all four sides. Then take a standard circular saw and cut straight across one side, turn the corner and cut the next, then turn the corner and cut the third. Don't just cut one side and run around to the other and cut it. It never works out as pretty as doing the three-sided cut.

   The reason you mark all four sides is to make sure the first and last marks line up. If they don't you have to adjust something.

   George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

1. 
   wrudiger | Apr 17, 2007 06:07am | #10

   Mark & cut is my normal approach as well.  I did use the guide boards when I was beveling the post tops - I'm not that good!

4. 
   1muff2muff | Apr 17, 2007 06:03am | #9

   How much are you cutting off?

1. 
   perez | Apr 18, 2007 05:14am | #20

   I think a Big Foot saw will do just fine. Just make sure you scribe the posts' four sides.

5. 
   draftguy | Apr 17, 2007 04:56pm | #12

   What Heck said . . . did the exact same thing last summer. A block with some low grit sandpaper will smooth out the minor imperfections.

6. 
   Mongo | Apr 17, 2007 06:31pm | #14

   I've always done post tops the same as Geoff.

   Build a box. My box has three side the same length, say 6" wide by 12" long. The fourth side is 6" wide by 8" long. I screw the box together so the top edges are even. Obviously on the bottom of the box, one side is shorter than the other three.

   Figure out how much cleanrance you need from the cut line to the top of your jig, mark your posts accordingly.

   Clamp the jig to the post, I use a quick clamp, and the cutout on the jig (the short side) is where the clamp's pad is able to get contact with the side of the post.

   Run the circular saw around all four edges of the box, follow up with a sawzall.

   After using the sawzall to complete the cut, I followed with a belt sander with low-grit paper, a quick touch on each side of the pyramid to make it all purdy.

   I did my pool fence last year, 34 posts, used the same method to cut a pyramid cap on each post.

   Goes very fast, faster than the text implies.

7. 
   oldfred | Apr 17, 2007 06:32pm | #15

   The box jig idea is maybe the safest most accurate way to do it.

   Because your circular saw won't cut all the way through you will have much less chance of the top piece jamming your saw (think kickback) or falling into the blade and flying off.

   I agree with not using a 16" circular saw for this job.

   Live to saw another day!

1. 
   nater | Apr 17, 2007 07:14pm | #16

   There's always a handsaw too... Good exercise. I actually trot mine out every now and then to keep in shape, and plan for the day that the world goes into chaos when the whole power grid goes down...

1. 
   oldfred | Apr 18, 2007 02:45am | #17

   Yep, would have needed the hand saw - or generator - yesterday, and maybe tomorrow in parts of this area.   Just came up Rt. 1 and noticed a bunch of tree and power trucks camped at one of the motels.

8. 
   Jer | Apr 18, 2007 04:03am | #18

   If you do the circular saw thing on 4 sides, which is the way I always do it too, adjust the shoe on your circular saw to a perfect 90 degrees to the blade before you start.

1. 
   brownbagg | Apr 18, 2007 04:47am | #19

   I alway just dug the hole deeperi do live in Alabama, so my advice might be worthless

1. 
   Jer | Apr 18, 2007 05:21am | #21

   "I alway just dug the hole deeper"Oh yeah....done that one too.

2. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 18, 2007 06:20am | #22

   What, you don't like pile drivers? Why dig when you can pound?

   Dinosaur

   DON'T MISS THE FEST!

    

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....