Replies

1. 
   artacoma | Apr 12, 2007 06:15am | #1

   If its 1/4 or less I would use a power plane ,if it's a 1/2 or so I would use a circ saw and a straight edge and clean up with a block plane .

   And don't forget to put a coat of finish on the cut edge.

   cheers Rik

2. 
   Waters | Apr 12, 2007 06:20am | #2

   Even for 1/4" or less I would use the circular saw with a guide, as mentioned, but also a good trick is to first put a layer or two of masking tape tightly over the TOP edge of the door.  This will protect it from scratches from the saw base, give you a clear place to make marks, and most importantly, prevent tearout from your blade as it exits the top of the door.  Then clean up with sandpaper or plane, and finish as stated.

3. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 12, 2007 07:03am | #3

   If using a power planer, use a utility knife to score the opposite edge of the door you will start your cut from.....this will help prevent tear-out as you finish your cut w/ the planer.

   If using a circular saw....use painters tape to help prevent tear-out (and to help make your cut line more legible) from the blade...the tape should be placed on the back-side (or face that is least likely to be seen) of the door w/ the front side facing down, this means the blade is cutting the front of the door on the up-stroke, so no tear-out issues. This is all assuming you're setting the door on a horizontal support,such as saw horses, in order to do the cutting

                                                                          Geoff

1. 
   grpphoto | Apr 12, 2007 05:46pm | #10

   Just to make it clear here. When using a circular saw, the tear-out occurs at the point where the front of the blade exits the wood. Put the tape on the same side as the saw.When using a planer, rather than scoring the edge in an attempt to prevent tear-out, it's best to plane from both ends towards the middle. Or clamp a piece of scrap to the edge and let the tear-out happen in the scrap wood.George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

1. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 12, 2007 09:52pm | #14

    

   "Just to make it clear here. When using a circular saw, the tear-out occurs at the point where the front of the blade exits the wood. Put the tape on the same side as the saw. "

   Hey George,

   yes I understand that, I believe that's what I was saying to do...although maybe not as clearly as I should have.....

   As to the planer, I was trying to avoid the "come in from each end " method for someone who appears to be a novice, since that method does require a skill level so as not to get a wave in the bottom of the door,......But I had forgotten about the block on the end trick,...Thanks, good call!

                                                                         Geoff  

   P.S.  I seem to be forgetting a lot more than I would like these days!!  :)

4. 
   DonCanDo | Apr 12, 2007 12:56pm | #4

   If you use a circular saw, make sure it has a good blade and it's the right kind (cross-cut or rip).  Oak is tough stuff and it's going to try and push that blade off the mark.  Also make sure your straight-edge doesn't flex and that it's well secured so you can bear against it with the base plate.

   If you've never done this before, practice would be a good idea.  Practice on some oak if you can because you can't expect oak to cut like pine.

1. 
   jlpk1500 | Apr 12, 2007 03:55pm | #5

   Thanks for the info guys. I am going to look for a 40 tooth or higher saw blade today. Yes I am taking doors off and putting the least visible face down.

1. 
   IBEWChuck | Apr 12, 2007 05:01pm | #8

   I believe that you need to re-read Geoffrey's post 88487.4.
   I think that he was telling you that the front (most visible) side of the door needed to face down during the cutting operation.Chuck

2. 
   grpphoto | Apr 12, 2007 05:50pm | #12

   > If you use a circular saw, make sure it has a good blade and it's
   > the right kind (cross-cut or rip). When cutting a typical panel door, you'll be crosscutting the stiles and ripping the bottom frame. I find that something like a 40 tooth Diablo works well.George Patterson, Patterson Handyman Service

5. 
   karp | Apr 12, 2007 03:56pm | #6

   Mark door, tape, score top side with knife, clamp straight-edge, cut with skil-saw 1/16" off line, finish with belt sander, seal door bottom, re-hang door, check swing, repeat if nessasary.

6. 
   DustinT | Apr 12, 2007 04:10pm | #7

   You immediately need to order a festool panel saw system with vacuum and many expensive accessories.  Or you can take the much less expensive advice of everyone else.  Definitely seal up the cut, you don't want the door to warp.  Wouldn't hurt to scribe your cut line either.

   Dustin

7. 
   maverick | Apr 12, 2007 05:21pm | #9

   I use tape but only to keep the foot of the saw from marking up the door. put down a double row of two inch. with a utility knife score the cut line and the edge where the blade will exit the door. go over it a few times then clap a straight edge for the saw to follow

8. 
   Dave45 | Apr 12, 2007 05:46pm | #11

   It's too late for your situation, but doors should be trimmed before the new flooring goes down.  Whenever possible, I make up a block as thick as the new flooring and use it on the slab or subfloor to mark the door bottom through it's full swing.  Then, I add 1/2" and trim the door.

   This can get interesting in a remodeling job.  I recently replaced 10 interior doors in a house that will be getting new hardwood flooring to replace a sea of Pergo and really old carpet.  One bedroom has the flooring and the new (untrimmed) door fit fine until I tried to open it.  The slab isn't level so I trimmed the door to get ~1/4" clearance when it's fully open.  The HO doesn't like the gap (~5/8") under the closed door, but understands why it's there.  I'll have to go back when the old flooring is removed so I can trim the doors as needed.  I've also told her that she needs to know if she'll be using any throw rugs, etc and how thick they will be. 

   My bid included one final trim per door, so it's gotta be right or it will cost extra.  Trimming a little more isn't too bad, but trying to put some back can get expensive. - lol

9. 
   mike4244 | Apr 12, 2007 07:40pm | #13

   Use circular saw with 40 teeth and a straight edge.Do not bother taping or scoring with a knife.Set saw base about  for 3/16" deep cut.Next you will make a scoring cut by pulling the saw backwards and holding the guard up slightly so it does not scratch the door.After the scoring cut,set the sawbase for the full cut and push the saw like you normally would.This works every time on any stock that tearout is a problem.

   I have cut doors,veneered panels, laminated doors etc for many years without ever scoring or taping.

   If you make the straight edge a two piece affair ,masonite or 1/4" ply bottom and stright edge on top, then you do not have to hold the guard up, the guard will ride on the masonite.

   I started using this method 30 or so years ago when I had 200 + formica covered doors to hang.About 40 of the doors had to be cut where they swing into an existing building.After cutting and hanging one door an hour using the tape and score method I had a revelation.Used to work in a cabinet shop that had a scoring saw,small blade ahead of the rip blade for veneered and laminate work. This gave me the idea to score with the circularsaw.

   If you are concerned about pulling the saw backwards,then reverse the blade,make the shallow scoring cut .Then put blade in correctly and cut the rest of the way.This is time consuming,but for three doors and if you are not comfortable with pulling the saw backwards,this will work fine.

   mike

1. 
   jlpk1500 | Apr 13, 2007 04:28am | #15

   Thanks for all the tips guys-if I do the shallow cut first, should I still have the front side face down?

1. 
   mike4244 | Apr 13, 2007 05:24pm | #18

   Makes no difference which side you score .Both sides of the door will not have tearout.The only possible tearout may be at the bottom edge where the blade exits.

   You could score the edge with a knife or chisel but I found it is not neccesary. Evenif the bottom edge did have tearout it would so slight and at a place you can't seeunless the door is wide open.You would really have to look for it.Almost never occurs in a door edge unless the edge is a laminate.

   mike

10. 
    MikeSmith | Apr 13, 2007 05:09am | #16

    for cutting doors we used to do all the things previously recommended

    now i just make one pass with my  8 1/4 saw on my EZ Guide.... no tape , no tear-out

    might be a good excuse to buy a setup

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   rez | Apr 13, 2007 05:41am | #17

   Mike did it!

   Mike said it!

    

   be Mike    roar!

   Parolee # 53804