*
What is the best way to cut a c-top on site? i need to do one with rolled front and cove splash. Both ends on this one have return walls and will have end splash kits. seems the cut needs to be perfectly straight for the end splash to fit properly at the cut.
i’ve heard of running a circ saw backwards to not chip the laminate (pulling rather than pushing; creating your own negative rake i guess), and of getting to within 1/8 or 1/16 and then belt sanding or filing to a finished line. problem seems to me that sanding/filing to a finished line may not end up perfectly straight. problem with cutting is chipping formica and attaching straight edge at roll front and integral back splash.
a good straight edge clamping techinique would be very helpful. seems you need to do this from the underside, in which case i don’t think you’d want to pull the saw. hmmm, if top is upside down on horses, maybe just some straight 2×4, one short one down the backsplash and one across the top? 2x would be high enough to get over the splash and roll front lips, although you’d still have some plunging getting over them. if this would work, is there any inexpensive circ saw blade that wouldn’t chip out the top?
thanks, sorry so long
jeff s.
Replies
*
The end splash kits that I have used for post formed tops sit on top of the counter so you wouldnt need a perfect cut or have to worry about a little chipping. You might want to check that first. Wouldnt try pulling the saw, if it kicks back it will ruin the top or your hand. I have cut them upside down with no problem but the place you bought it may trim it free or for a small fee. I use something like a 40 tooth carbide finish blade on a circular saw, about 20 bucks and there is very little chipping. Try a practice cut in the waste area to see if it will work for you.
*
Thanks for your input. Home center won't cut it. I would prefer the side splashes that sit on top, but these do not. The ones that sit on top must then have the cove splash radius cut into them right? Also, they stop short of the front edge i think. These go all the way from the very back to flush with the front rolled edge. i figure i'll make some test cuts, but end up sanding/filing.
Thanks again,
jeff s.
*
Yes the side splashes that sit on top are shaped to fit profile of top and go over front edge. Not the best looking things in the world either. You might also try a local postformed top shop for the splashes that sit on top. The shop here sells the tops to Home Depot so they have the same splashes. Even if they didnt manufactore the top it may be a close fit. Otherwise just cut it like you planned. Sometimes a little masking tape over the cut line helps with chipping, thats what i do on sink cutouts.
*I used lots of cheap masking tape -- the kind that DOESN'T release easily -- and a sharp carbide Craftsman blade with maybe 24 teeth for a chip-free sink cutout. When months later I tried a nicer blade with more teeth, nicer tape, and also a jigsaw, on identical laminate, lots of little bitty chips. Go figure. Moral: it can be done, just not consistently by me!Do some practice cuts short of the real line before you commit! There are a lot of kitchen pros here, where are you!!
*Jeff, Cutting a post formed top close to the line from the backside will work just fine. I use a good (Makita) 40 tooth blade. Then try undercutting each end, except for the very front and top of the backsplash, with a jig saw from the face side. Then use an angle grinder and/or belt sander to get as close to the line as you feel comfortable. This is dusty, so you might want a mask. Then cut a scrap (I use 1/2" MDF) that will snugly fit inside a sanding belt. Cordless belt sander! True up the edge where it needs it.You should only have to cut one end.BB
*I second Billy on cutting from the backside, sanding to the line. There are also downcut jigsaw blades available, which reduce chipping. There are still lots of guys too who cut them with a fine handsaw; takes a mite longer, but lots of control. I wouldn't try running a skilsaw backwards whatever you do.
*I’ve cut a number of preformed tops on site from the backside. In fact I’ve even had to redo miters onsite because of how far out of square rooms may be built for a kitchen. If I hadn’t seen a top cut onsite by a preformed tops man in Arizona, when I was working for a tract homebuilder there, I don’t know that I would have ever tried it myself if I’d never seen it done before. It is possible to build a straight edge for a skillsaw and use that to get the cuts pretty darn straight and span the front to back edges. For this I have a thin but wide straight edge that can be clamped to a piece of 1/8 to ½-inch by 12-inch wide 4-foot long material (thinner the material and the straightedge, the deeper the cut). The straightedge is clamped far enough back from the edge so the saw can cut for its width and is run through it to make an edge that can be set exactly on any marks to which cuts need to be made.A belt sander is used to finish the tops edges to a pretty straight shot and can be done with a piece of maple or white oak clamped to it. This helps keep you from going too deep too fast on the softer particleboard if you’re not experienced enough with using a beltsander. The end splashes that I’ve installed have always been secured to the end of the tops after the top has been cut short enough so it can be installed wall to wall. Then laminate edges are added after the top has been set. This way the edging can be scribed to fit the wall and shortened on its width enough to fit near exact to the wall and countertops front and top rolled edges. Making for very little filing or sanding to finish the edges. I scribe the pieces to the exact fit and then cut them using the tablesaw. Having the blade below the top and clamping another piece of wood on top of it the blade is then brought up until it has comes through about ¼ of and inch or more. This prevents the problem of chipping.
*
What is the best way to cut a c-top on site? i need to do one with rolled front and cove splash. Both ends on this one have return walls and will have end splash kits. seems the cut needs to be perfectly straight for the end splash to fit properly at the cut.
i've heard of running a circ saw backwards to not chip the laminate (pulling rather than pushing; creating your own negative rake i guess), and of getting to within 1/8 or 1/16 and then belt sanding or filing to a finished line. problem seems to me that sanding/filing to a finished line may not end up perfectly straight. problem with cutting is chipping formica and attaching straight edge at roll front and integral back splash.
a good straight edge clamping techinique would be very helpful. seems you need to do this from the underside, in which case i don't think you'd want to pull the saw. hmmm, if top is upside down on horses, maybe just some straight 2x4, one short one down the backsplash and one across the top? 2x would be high enough to get over the splash and roll front lips, although you'd still have some plunging getting over them. if this would work, is there any inexpensive circ saw blade that wouldn't chip out the top?
thanks, sorry so long
jeff s.