What’s the “best” method for cutting out holes in the drywall for recessed lights?
And what I mean is:
Do you measure to the “center” of the light and try to transfer that (and reverse it correctly) to the drywall and cut and then hang?
Or sort of hang it and then try to cut it with a saw?
I’ve got one of those little circle thingies, but I’m stupid and don’t know how to use it that well.
It seems no matter how close I try to measure, I’m always off (and there’s like 3 in a row), or if I try to hang it, it’s a major PITA to use the saw.
Figured you pros had a trick (other than experience).
Replies
Measure to the center of the light, then transfer measurements to face of drywall in the form of an X.
Hang the sheet and cut out a finger sized hole with a Rotozip to make sure your X is right. Then cut around the ouside of the light.
What the problem is?
I measure from the edge of the sheet (or wall) to the C/L of the light-there's a nick in the can on most all cans I install (Centerline).
Take the circle scorer and push the needle point on the mark. Push it around, score the board and then use a utility knife to cut the mark (if you have to, and at first you should). X-out the inner circle (cut pie shapes) and then bang it with your hammer (starting at the center). Bust out the hole, pull the scrap off the back.
Put it up and see how you did.
Or buy remodel cans, finish the cut on the ceiling.
Or buy a rotozip.
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Edited 9/13/2006 9:07 pm ET by calvin
If you're not good with the circle thingy, don't use it for now! They can wander easily and it takes a bit of practice.
- take some careful measurements to center and mark the center point on the board.
- use a compass with a pencil and mark the hole for the can.
- cut right down the circular line with your saw. Ideally you should tilt the saw slightly as you cut so the back of the cut is wider than the front.
- install and enjoy <grin>
If you want to use the circle cutter try this,
1. Move the center pin out at least a 1/2". There should be a set screw on the side to hold it in place.
2. Place the pin with one clean push, then rotate to score the paper.
3. Go to the backside, put the pin in the same center hole and repeat.
4. Now that circle should knock out cleanly ( fingers crossed for you!)
Try all of this on some scrapes to get a better feel for it, it'll come... Buic
P.S. roto-zip, that's a different can of worms.
tape the template that comes with the light to the ceiling and use a keyhole saw.
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I'm assuming that you're planning on using remodel cans that clip onto the drywall - after you cut a properly sized hole - in the right location - lol.
When I'm installing remodel cans, I first carefully measure and mark the center of the can locations and use pushpins to mark them. Then I poke a small hole at each pushpin and use a stiff wire to probe for joists or other obstructions - moving the locations if necessary. When I'm finally satisfied that there are no obstructions and my locations still work, I use these to mark and cut the holes.
Set the compass to the radius of the can plus ~1/16" and poke the point in the hole where you had the pushpin. Using light pressure, rotate the compass so the wheel scores the drywall. It isn't supposed to make the cut - it just marks it for you. Then use your handy-dandy drywall saw to cut the hole.
It's a piece of cake.
Edited 9/14/2006 1:11 am by Dave45
No, this is new stuff. I'd wanted 4" cans, but the only 4" ones I could find were remodel and there was only one that was rated for IC and they're like $25/apiece (and when you have 8 of them, that's a chunk of change). So I got the 5" new construction IC cans and they were like $8/apiece.But anyway, even if I have the template, I somehow manage to measure wrong.Although I like the idea of "X-ing" the drywall, as maybe that will provide me a better and more accurate cut.I'll let you all know how i make out.
What Stilleto said, but if you don't have a rotozip, use a keyhole saw. Its fussy, but if its good and sharp you can cut slowly, the inside of the can.
Thats the old fasioned way we did it before rotors :)
Sometimes I transfer when I'm cutting out a live receptical, not recommended. But often times I miss. It's a pretty hit and miss way to work IMHO.
Patching around potlights is a real pain.
If you use the compass, always do a test hole first. The compass circle is never as big or as small as I thought it was.
Have a great day,
I've had this problem before, now , when ever possible, I use a hole saw on my cordless. As someone mentioned, patching potlites is a real pain.
Recessed lights come with cardboard templates for making the holes. Just put the template up, trace, and cut. At least, this is how it's done for "old work" lights.
For the lights you install before the rock is hung, try this:
Make a mark - perhaps an "X" of masking tape- on the floor, directly under the lights. Apply the drywall; this will push the lights up. Using your mark, cut into the can, inside the fixture, then cut out toward the edge. cut out around the inside of the can, to remove the plug. If you angle your saw, you will be able to do any trimming necessary (for the can to slip into the hole) with a razor knife.