I’m putting in that small octagonal tile for the bathroom that comes in sheets so all the pieces are held in place by the flexible backing.
What is the best way to run one of those sheets through a tile saw? Anyone have a jig idea that would clamp the sheet and hold all of the pieces in place? Or do I have to manually cut each one and place it in separate?
Replies
I haven't done this but an opportunity a few years ago to tile a bath posed the same problem: to cut mitres on the sheets as you described.
What I had thought to do was to apply a sheet of clear adhesive backed shelf liner to the face. This would allow me to mark the mitres and some of the odd angles I was going to have. By locking the sheet together better I thought it would pass through the tile saw better.
I didn't get the job and I here it looked like a hammered t u r d but I don't know if my idea would have worked.
Just thought I'd toss it to you. If you do it and it works let me know, show a phot.
If anyone thinks I'm full of beans I'm sure they'll say so.
Good luck
Edited 7/28/2004 10:11 am ET by JAGWAH
Yeah, I had a similar thought about securing them but I dont think the shelf liner would hold them rigid enough when they hit the blade. They jump around a lot. Maybe sandwich them in a wooden jig that acts as a sled?
I'll prob spend more time making the darn jig than if I cut them all individually.
I think the Daltile/American Olean octagonals have factory cut halves available. I also thought there was a recent(?) FHB article on cutting mosaic sheets.
Aaron
Not to deviate here but I just read that its better to use plywood subfloor to tile onto instead of the concrete backer board. Doesnt sound right. What's the verdict on that?
I don't have a good answer to your question, was just going to tell you you may get more replies if you start it as a new thread. I would say, however, that it depends on what is underneath the backer/subfloor as to whether you chould use plywood or a cementitious product. Maybe on wood joists, 3/4 T&G plywood would be better than the other stuff. Sure you'll get people who know if you post your question as a separate/new post.
I have done a lot of this (3 bathrooms, totalling about 300 sq ft). I use good quality tiles (obtained from Home Depot EXPO in 2 out of three cases) that have a well attached mesh. The mesh tends to loosen the more wet it gets --- i.e. in your wet saw. So do all your cuts on a given sheet at once before the mesh gets soft and loose. You definitely do not want to cut each tile separately.
Secondly, I use a good saw --- mine is a pretty expensive MK model. With a good saw and smoothly operating table, you can push even a portion of a sheet through without too much trouble. Just move along pressing down firmly on the little tiles that are currently going through the blade. Since the table moves, rather than the sheet sliding on the table, it is not to hard to keep the tiles in place. I have lost all fear of having my hands next to the blade; you probably are aware that because of the smooth edge it is very hard to injure yourself unless your hand gets squeezed between the table and the blade. Much safer than a table saw for wood.
For angled cuts, I make a sacrificial jig out of spare 12 x12 regular full tile. Just cut a deep V (or triangle) out of the big tile. Set your mosaic mesh at the front of the V and run it through. (Don't make your jig out of wood; it just binds the blade.) Eventually, you may cut through or break your jig, but making a new one is quick..
Thanks Rick. I was looking at some of the MK saws. Just a homeowner usage here but I saw one for like $260 or something like that. Not too bad. Any features I should absolutely have?
I am just a homeowner too, but I have two homes, both getting lots of remodeling. I bought the saw because I found myself working til midnight to try to get finished with the saw faster, but always ended up renting it for another day or weekend. This kind of work is a lot more satisfying and rational if you do your cuts when you get to that point in the project, rather than when you have paid to rent the saw. And it frees up your design to easily do the whole wall, floor etc on the diagonal or whatever you want. Took what I could accomplish to a whole new level. You can't really do glass tiles with a manual cutter, and we have graduated to the beauty of glass tiles on our last project (see the pictures).
Feature-wise, there is not too much you absolutely need other than a water pump and spinning blade. Beyond that you have to decide if you need the capacity to cut 16" tiles ever, or do you want to be able to control the depth of the cut, etc. Probably the MK370 is a good compromise, and can be had for around what you want to spend. I actually bought a factory-reconditioned saw, so could get more saw for the buck.
Thanks Rick. Thats some nice work you did there. I like the sink too. Very cool. I'll check out the MK saws. I'm always one to get the equipment too.
I have the MK370 ... can't wait for it to wear out or get stolen so I can get a decent saw. Go to a tile store in your area ... DalTile if you have one, or any other regular tile store ... mine here sell decent sawes for good prices.
I think one of the biggest problems with the MK370 is the plastic table ... mine debeloped a pronounced sag in the middle within 6 months. Doesn't bother 4" tiles, but 12" and larger, especially stone, tend to snap the last inch. Very frustrating and expensive.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
I vote for an angle grinder with a masonry wheel. If you need to stabilize the tiles, have the cut line stick out slightly between two pieces of thin plywood clamped together. The wheel will be large enough to clear the wood.
Steve
same here..except I use a diamond 41/2'' blade.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Ditto on the 4 1/2" diamond blade on the angle grinder. Lasts forever and gives a good cut.
If you need to hold the meshed pieces, use a piece of thin plywood with a piece of sill-seal wrapped around it. Protects the tiles and will hold everything in place.