Hi all,
I’m putting in a first floor deck, framing it with pt lumber. My client has found some pretty fantastic kd cedar, 2×10. Anyone know if there’s a really good under deck fastener for these? If not, what do you prefer for fastening conventionally? Any caveats about the pt framing with cedar decking?
Thanks!
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Replies
There quite a few systems on the market, do a Google search using 'deck fasteners' and you'll see. The link below is for one that Lee Valley sells (price in $CDN).
http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=44872&category=2,2180,33227
Key thing is separation between decking and framing to allow air flow and avoid rot around fasteners. The other thing will be resistance to pressure treated corrosion. Most systems are either HD galvanised or stainless. None are cheap but they look great and can greatly extend the life of the deck in wet climates.
One final thought, 2x10 sounds awful wide to me, it will almost certainly cup. Personally I've never done anything bigger than 2 x 6 and even those are showing signs of cupping. Any chance you could exchange the 2x10s for 2x6?
Wally
Thanks, Wally. I'll do some more research and pick one. I agree that 2x10 is a bit much but that's what was available and at a very low price. I should mention that the deck is covered and will only receive wind driven rain. The owner plans to sikkens the dickens out of it.
Well it would be a crying shame to rip cedar 2 x 10s down. Hope the HO knows the likely consequences. Make sure to seal all sides of the boards too.
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
I checked out deckmaster, too pricey for the ho. The local hd sells a "deckster" bracket that should do and is much less expensive, about $200 versus over $500 for deckmaster.
I'm concerned about the 2x10 too. However, the cedar is kd, will be well sealed and screwed from the bottom and will not receive full weather. Do you guys think that cupping will still occur?
Edited 10/30/2004 2:31 pm ET by goodwood
Do you guys think that cupping will still occur?"
Goodwood,
I guess it depends on the climate, but here in SE WI ... yes, big time. Where do you live?
Do you guys think that cupping will still occur?"
Yup... Here in Colorado too...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I live on the wet coast of BC. I agree with everyone, rip them in half, better safe than sorry.
about $200 versus over $500 for deckmaster.
$300 is a deal killer for a deck that's supposed to last a lifetime?
good luck to ya.
Jeff
2 x 10 down to 2 x 6 - rip them
Deckmaster is a wonderful product, but take a lot more time then expected. To start with you have to deal with the inevitable glint of the SS from between the deck boards. Deckmaster suggests painting for this but my Deckmaster was so oily the prep would have taken too much time. For the to be stained dark brown deck I covered the gap with bent pieces of brown flashing. Worked well. You'll also need a close quarter drill, your wrist will thank you.
You also can't ignore that Deckmaster will cost more than your joists - but your deck will have no perforations, which is worth a lot.
I just checked a Deckmaster deck I did a year ago. With age and detritis from a near-by pine, I couldnt see any metal between the deck boards.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
what would a power washing reveal?
ACQ no doupt...
What what you use for fasteners on the framing...
2x10 framing or deck boards...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
I used the "Deckmaster" system 5 years ago on a 2x6 cedar deck. Looks fantastic, available in stainless.
I second what Wally says.
2x10 is too wide. Rip them down and you'll be happier in the long run.
Clay,
I think your message was meant for Goodwood.
WSJ
Rip them down or you will be very sorry. The deck will not drain properly with such wide boards and they will cup, expand/contract, and warp excessively. You will get premature rotting, broken fasteners, loose boards and a host of other VERY BAD stuff. The expansion problem alone makes 2x10's a NO GO. You'd need to leave at least 1/2" between boards which is more than most people like ... I have to fight em to let me put 5/16" between 2x6 boards.