I am interested in reusing wood from old peices of furniture, fences, etc. for new projects. What type of denailer do you recommend?
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Hi Salvager,
In general, I have used many tools to find and pull nails from wood. Everything from picks, awls, vise grips, claw hammers, and my new favorite tool is just plain old channel loks. Grip the nail with them, squeeze hard and rotate the nail out of the wood with the curved jaw. That is if you can get the nail part way exposed to get a grip on it.
Finding the nails is the real chore. If you don't find ém all, the can destroy sawblades jointer knives and planer blades for good. One of the handiest gadgets is the metal detecting wands like security gaurds at the airport use. You can find them in woodworking magazines.
Also a pair of carpenters end nippers can be use full as well as nail sets to drive some nails all the way thru.
Webby
The end nippers are the ticket for de-nailing. Much better than Channelocks IMHO.I have a set of Huskt End Clippers - the larger ones and they will pull anything out.JT
Also try rare earth magnets for finding nails.
-- J.S.
What do you mean by "rare earth" magnets?
Neodymium
Forrest
Hi Salvager - welcome to breaktime, :o)
Can I suggest you update your profile so we know where you're writing from, and so you're more a part of the lil' club here? Would also like to see what your doing if you have a website or blog or something.
Anywayz, that pnumatic nail kicker looks like a real time saver but there's something they don't mention - it doesn't punch the nail all the way through the wood. You still have to go back with a prying tool and pull the nails out, but the kicker looks like a big time saver if you're removing hundreds of nails on a regular basis. Certainly beats whacking them through with a hammer.
As for the bridgeport tool, it does less damage than a cats paw or similar tool. It digs into the wood enough to grab the head of a flush or sunken nail. Any tool that digs into the wood is going to cause some damage, but the bridgeport tool causes the least over any similar tool that I know of.
I've used both the aformentioned end nipper and barbed wire puller (and channel-locks) for pulling nails. The end nipper is my prefered cause it has a wider surface, making it easier to grab the nail. Only problem is, if it's too sharp it will cut the nails by accident. When I bought a new pair (old one lost on a job) about a year ago, the first thing I did was hit the blade with my grinder to dull it down a little.
I use the end nipper (or nail puller as I call it) mostly to back-pull finish nails from trim, as driving them out the way they went in usually pushes a chunk of wood with it, thus damaging the face side of the trim. I like that extractor snort suggested. It looks well designed for back pulling nails and won't cut them, as it has flat jaws, unlike the pointed edged jaws of the nipper. In fact I'm going to go back there now and order me one.
There's no single way to pull nails so you can expect to have a small arsonal of tools by your side. If you're remilling old lumber a metal detecting wand is indispensable, as there will be some you can't see with your eyes, but your planer will definately find them the hard and costly way.
Here's some links to Amazon.com for some of the tools mentioned:
Not a Bridgeport but the same thing - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7SD/qid=1151739258/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/102-8163239-8652947?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
Metal detector wand - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005NMUN/qid=1151739480/sr=1-12/ref=sr_1_12/102-8163239-8652947?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013
End Nippers - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi/102-8163239-8652947?url=node%3D468240%2C551238&field-keywords=end+nippers
Barbed wire puller (Fence Puller) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YV63Y/ref=sr_11_1/102-8163239-8652947?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I checked out your website. That's some nice work there!
So, about that 6-panel door. No, I can't tell that 10" were removed. I figure you removed it from the middle somehow. Care to share?
-Don
Basically, I just lopped it out right across the middle. The middle panels were originally as tall as the lower panels.
I clamped on a straight-edge (4' level) to get perfect cut's from my circular saw, and made 2 cuts 10" apart, right through the 2 middle panels. Then I slipped the panels out, used a 1/8" slotting bit in my router to cut a slot for a 1/8" thick spline, and glued the panels back together. Then I cut the same slots in the door styles, slipped the panels back into place, and glued the door back together.
I clamped the panels and let them dry overnight, then sanded the seam smooth before doing the door. I also clamped the door and let it dry overnight, sanded those seams, and primed everything before rehanging the door.
Here's a drawing...
View Image
Edit: Just thought I should add, this obviously wouldn't work if the doors aren't painted. Also, these doors (I did 3 like this) is in the kid's play room of 3 somewhat rambunctious young-uns. That was about 5 years ago and not a single splined joint cracked yet.
--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 7/5/2006 12:13 am by Ted W.
I tried to update the profile, but did not find space for project information. Anyway, my husband and I are tackling some projects in New England, tearing out maple flooring, deconstructing a barn, and using the wood for other projects like adorondack chairs, a new deck... we are amateurs and are just starting out (accountants by the day). The metal detector is on the way... and we are excited about all these nail pulling tools and techniques.
We are trying out the nail kicker. It does shoot the nail completely out on flooring and plywood, dimensional wood is harder. Sometimes if you pull the trigger twice it will come out, other times you need a prying tool. The nice part is that it does not harm the wood.
I will try the bridgeport tool and the nail extractor next. Thanks for all the useful info!
I think the bridgeport tool (which I think is just the name of the original manufacturer, not the tool itself) is best for completely embeded nails, like when there is no exposed end. For instance, if a nail is sunken into a beam. In that case the tool would dig in to grab the nail head, doing the least amount of damage to the wood compared to other tools.
Glad to hear the nail kicker does the complete job, at lease on 1X stock. Sounds like a great tool. --------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
They're extremely strong high-tech magnets:
http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/
I keep one in a heavy duty plastic bag, and dangle it against stuff to find nails.
-- J.S.
Great, thanks for the link. I will check that out.
Garrett Wade sells a couple of nifty tools for pulling nails.
Another vote for end nippers - grind the nose flat so you can bite right at the surface.
Forrest
my favorite one is to get someone else to do it!!
one of my first jobs on site was to denailer some flooring. it took me 3 days.
Thanks all for your good advice. We have tried some of those tools, but nothing seems consistent with the variety of wood and types of nails that we are trying to get out. My husband just found a hand tool on-line that shoots nails out backwards, opposite to a nail gun. We just ordered it and hope to have it delivered next week. Check it out, we thought it looked pretty interesting. http://www.nailkicker.com
I made a hand operated version of that 'nailkicker' to denail crates that were put together with ring shanks from nail guns. I drilled a hole, a bit larger than the nail diameter into the end of a long bolt that I had cut the head and thread off of. The resulting hollow tipped punch is set over the nail and smacked with a hammer. Because the nail can't slip to the side and bend again, it gets driven out far enough to get your favorite puller on, and out she comes. I found that the nail doesn't have to be stood up first with a separate tool unless it was hit flat to the board. Slip the punch over the bent nail and use it to stand the nail up to hit. If I were going to do a bunch more I would drill the end of a punch tip (after annealing) and use it in an air hammer/rivet gun.
Huh, that is a great idea. What type of bit do you use to drill into the bolt? Sorry, I am a novice... what is a punch tip? (your technique for doing several) We have tons of wood from decon projects.
this could become your favorite nail puller:http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=142-760 I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
<<What type of bit do you use to drill into the bolt? Sorry, I am a novice... what is a punch tip? >>An ordinary twist drill bit will drill the hole in the end of a bolt. If it's hardened steel that you are trying to drill, then buy 'cobalt' (harder than standard high speed steel drill bits) but it is not needed for over the counter bolts. Best method is to drill the bolt in a metal lathe, second is centered in a vice on a drill press.The punch tip is the one on the right in the link below. (I'm only using that link to illustrate, not endorsing.) You would need to have the tip softened for drilling by heating to red hot and letting it cool slowly, don't let the driving end get hot. Grind it back then drill. You should be able to find better tools in the area you live in, but a cheap one would let you know if it is what you want. When the cheap one dies you can get better. Wear ear protectors! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32940
You would need to have the tip softened for drilling by heating to red hot and letting it cool slowly, don't let the driving end get hot. Grind it back then drill.
Or buy a carbide drill bit and simply drill it.
Thanks for the clarification. You are all so helpful!!
End nippers are a necessity. But also there is something called a "fence tool" used for stringing barbed wire. Very handy as it has a rounded head that will roll well, a pointed end for digging out staples/nails, and one edge of the head is a hammer, so you can beat down on a pry bar if need be.
Also be sure to have some sacrificial blocks of wood and an actual crow bar. You may find some really long and strong framing nails.
A set of vise grips with the head ground to a point can be helpful for digging out small nails.
Ditto the vise grips ground to a point. I saw some episode of This Old House where Tom Silva had some vise grips ground to a point and he had someone weld something like a steel dowel to the handle. This dowel had a weight on it that would slide up and down the dowel so that you could open the vise grips enough to go over the head of a flush or countersunk nail and sling the weight down the dowel and it would drive the ground point of the vise grips into the wood surrounding the nail head. It was actually pretty trick.
Sort of like those fancy nail pullers from garrett wade that you hit with a hammer. But cheaper and custom built! aka jury rigged.... just the way I like it. lol
I always found it funny that I'd carry one nail insertion device (hammer) and at least 3 nail removal devices in my bags. All depends on the particular nail and the value of the material it's being removed from.
Cats paw, wonder bar, various sizes of crow bars, vice grips, and of course the favorite all-purpose tool - the straight rip claw on a framing hammer. Nippers are my default go-to; with or without some protection for the wood. Sometimes nail punches for rusted/broken off nails.
I really like the looks of that pneumatic tool - be curious to hear how well it works. Done a fair bit of salvage, but never enough to justify a tool like that.
I think what you're looking for is the Crescent Bridgeport #56 Nail Puller. I have a couple of them, which cost around $5-10 apiece, as I recall. I don't know if they're still made or not.
This gadget, viewed from the side, looks like a boot (like Italy does). It is about 2 1/2 feet long extended, which gives you a lot of leverage. The handle is combined with a slide hammer, which allows you to pound the business end--a pincher with a lever arm to squeeze the nail tightly, then lever it out easily. It is made of cast iron, and weighs about 3 or 4 pounds.
When a nail head is at or below the surface of the wood, it is the least-scarring way to get it out. Whether the nail is headless or not is irrelevant, becauase it pinches the nail shank. It easily removes even 60d spikes, or anything else.
There are several listed on ebay, with starting bids of $6.47 (no. 230001472667) and $9.99 (no. 110001875524)
That sounds in my price range, I'll give it a try. Thanks the detailed info. It doesn't damaged the wood?
Minimally, where the 2 pincers dig beneath the surface to grab the shaft of the nail. If the shaft is above the surface and you use a fulcrum block, all you get is a hole where the nail was.
that's it....
everytime I see the title to this thread it makes me want to ask....
so I'm gonna...
isn't that a preserve in Alaska...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I don't know if anybody has mentioned this tool yet, but try http://www.nailextractor.com
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Looks interesting and inexpensive. What types of projects have you used it with? anything of quantity? (for example we are looking to pull about 5,000 square feet of maple flooring)
How well does it work with dimensional wood?
I'm going to get RWOriginals to answer that question for you - he's the guy who tested the tool for FHB... Stay tuned.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
I didnt chime in b/c I thought Justin might want me to hold off until it got printed. But the extractor is pretty slick. I've only had it a couple of months now and it's gotten to be something I grab for pretty regular.
I'll say for now I think it's strong suit is the way it generates leverage. You barely have to squeeze the handles. Once it's on, the harder the nail is stuck, the harder the jaws bite into it. The rest you'll just have to read the mag :-)"Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton
Ya know, I posted an extractor link way early in this thread...best damn puller I've seen...but who listens to me? <G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
> ...but who listens to me?
I do, I'm gonna buy one. But first I gotta go thru the whole catalog and see what other great stuff to get to amortize the shipping over a larger number of tools. Absolutely essential to save money on shipping like that.... ;-)
-- J.S.
doode, if you need, I'll get ya one, and send it along...I've been pulling nails for a long time, the extractor kicks azz<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
Oh, nooo -- The thing is, where you find one really great unusual tool that makes life easier, there may be others lurking. So, now my task as a tool junkie is to identify them. And *buy* them all. ;-)
So, what other items do you recommend from that site?
Thanks --
-- J.S.
I'm lucky, they've got a branch about a 20 min. ride from me...makes it real easy for me to give 'em my money, that and their sale tables<G> I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
I bookmarked it when I saw your post, I have two or three size nippers including a really long handle pair with good leverage but the extractor looks good . its on my list the air tool looks good to but way overkill for me
your obviosly looking to do a quanity .
what is it your planning to do ?
We have a variety of projects including reusing wood flooring and deconstructing an old barn. This is our first attempt at reusing lumber. So far the tool that we bought on-line is working quite well. It is called the Nail Kicker, it is the reverse to a nail gun, it shoots nails out from the point side, leaving the board undamaged.