Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 18, 1999 07:17am | #1

   *
   Score the grey side & wear long sleeves. It'l itch like insulation. You can get 4x8 sheets , not just the 3x5. I like it better than cement board

1. 
   Guest_ | May 18, 1999 08:18am | #2

   *Rob's got it about right. Dens-shield handles like drywall (but a little tougher to cut). It contains fibreglas in the mix and it does cause itching. I also like it much better than cement board. It's lighter, and doesn't wick any water, and it's totally waterproof. Local supplier had a square cutoff in a bucket of water for a couple months with no damage. Try it, you won't go back. Jay A.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 18, 1999 09:43am | #3

   *Okay, but what about using it for floors? Seems to me it doesn't have the compressive strength required and it will probably get pretty squishy after some amount of foot traffic.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 04:12am | #4

   *Rich,I've got over 300 ft in my house that's been down 3 years. It works fine.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 05:18am | #5

   *Creature,

   I'm also a fan of Den-shield. I first used it way back in 89 for a bathroom, work great. I now use it about 50% of the time.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

2. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 09:18am | #6

   *Gentlemen: you mean you have used it for underlayment on floors? Really, I hadn't considered it for such use.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 09:28am | #7

   *I'm sure this stuff is great for the contractor, but is it better for the home owner? For the added convenience of the stuff (little in my opinion) is it worth the difference over the long run? Looks pretty wimpy to me.

4. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 07:31pm | #8

   *OK guys...if you had your choice between Hardibacker, Dens-Shield, or Durock, which would you pick. For walls and floors.

5. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 1999 09:35pm | #9

   *Floors--Durock; Walls--Dens-Shield; Dumpster--Hardibacker

6. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 1999 02:23am | #10

   *Ditto what Clint said.

7. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 1999 03:11am | #11

   *

   I only use it on walls.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

8. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 1999 07:12am | #12

   *OK, so what's your complaints about Hardibacker?

9. 
   Guest_ | May 20, 1999 08:09am | #13

   *Clint, are you serious? While I have used each product mentioned, I choose to use only Hardibacker; 1/4" for floors over a wood subfloor. Everything else I float.Re: backerboard. I just love the minimum thickness (1/4") that deletes the problems at the thresholds, cabinet toekicks, etc. Of all the backerboards, I choose to use Hardibacker.

10. 
    Guest_ | May 21, 1999 05:20am | #14

    *None of the above. First choice--float.

11. 
    Guest_ | May 21, 1999 05:25am | #15

    *Rich, your points are well made. I've never tried Hardibacker on a floor, but the main reason I don't like it is because it's a bugger to cut and doesn't take nails or screws well; the heads always stand proud, or the board shatters around the hole. Maybe it's my technique. Dens Shield is a pleasure to use compared to either alternative.

12. 
    Guest_ | May 21, 1999 06:40am | #16

    *Clint, for cutting Hardibacker, I use a diamond blade on my 4" grinder. For nailing, I use galvanized roofing nails. When using screws, I use a bronze alloy triple thread concrete screw that I got a good buy on some time ago.Maybe it's me, but I don't consider the dry cutting--read dust--to be too much of a problem. Yeah, I wear my HEPA filter mask. Also, Hardibacker holds a clean edge when cut, something I very much appreciate. I would be interested in hearing the real particulars about using Denshield for floor underlayment.BTW: any backerboard will crush if you get too close to the edge when edge nailing, stay back about 2".

13. 
    Guest_ | May 21, 1999 11:34pm | #17

    *Which side is the top...gray or purple??

14. 
    Guest_ | May 22, 1999 02:45am | #18

    *Contact Georgia Pacific for their pamphlet on Dens-Shield, it has lots of installation and test information. They state that Dens-Shield has passed the tile industry's standard test for floor assemblies (Robinson Floor Test, ASTM 627), and that 1/4" and 1/2" may be used for residential and light commercial floors.Their architectural Spec's state that Dens-Shield is to be installed per TCA Handbook method F144 (which is the method for cement backer bd.). You can get the TCA Handbood for $3 at http://www.tileusa.com.The main limitations are that it can't be used with floor tiles smaller than 2"x2", where temperatures exceed 120 oF, or in commercial steam rooms (residential steam rooms are ok).

15. 
    Guest_ | May 22, 1999 03:42am | #19

    *You can see Dens-Shield product literature at http://www.gp.com/build/gypsum/dens/tilebacker.html and read addmittedly pro-GP "testimonials" athttp://www.gp.com/build/gypsum/projects

16. 
    Guest_ | May 22, 1999 04:04am | #20

    *Anybody know where to get Dens-shield in the Seattle area?. The Georgia-Pacific website and 800 number was no help at all. HD has durock and hardibacker but havent seen dens-shield.

17. 
    Guest_ | May 22, 1999 07:37am | #21

    *The grey side is the top of the dens sheild. yes I use it as an unerlayment. It works fine. In fact I have an exposed edge to the stirs that gets hammered & it is holding up just fine. It's only been waiting 3 years to be finished so I see no need to be in a hurry. As for is it an advantage for home owners, I recomend it in the classes I teach. The simp;e reason is it is easier to handle & dosen't make as much of a mess. I use it where ever I can. The only time I use cement board is when I need a minimalsize in the backer/underlayment.

18. 
    Guest_ | May 22, 1999 09:26am | #22

    *Gray.Rich Beckman