I have a dewalt miter saw that is a couple of years old and has been used a fair amount. I have been using the original 40 tooth blade that came with and lately I noticed more tear out occuring so I bought a new 60 tooth dewalt trim blade for it and it seems as bad as before. It seems to happen regardless of the type of wood I am using (fir, cherry, maple). Did I get a bad blade? Should I try and return it (to HD) or is there something else I should try first? Thanks
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

A new code-compliant, spill-safe outlet from Legrand offers a sleek solution for a kitchen island plug.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
If the armature has wobble, not even the best blade will give you a good cut.
Yaaarg !¡!!¡!!! Stand still... While I smite thee !
quittintime
If the armature has wobble, not even the best blade will give you a good cut.
Same goes for an amateur with shaky hands? :)
I'd check it carefully before settling on the blade as the cause. Check the radial and tangential runout: with the power off, of course, place a block of wood near the blade to sight against and turn the blade by hand. Does it run true side to side? Does it run round all the way around? If you grab the blade and shake it, does it or the bearings feel loose? Does the arbor turn smoothly or is there a tick, hard spot, or drag?
Check the mounting and the arbor. Some blades come with 25 millimeter holes and some with 1 inch holes. They are close enough to confuse, but different enough for the blade to not run true. Is there dirt on the arbor? Do the teeth feel sharp?
(I didn't say this, but, is the blade on backwards? You don't have to admit it to us if it is.)
My reply to Luka, I didn't mean to imply you were an amateur, just a word play. I apologize for any misinterpretation.
Did this happen all of a sudden or did it happen over a period of time? This may indicate something could have bumped something out of whack. What about comparing the cut from the old blade to the new? If the new blade is worse then you have a lemon. If the cut of the new blade is comparable to or better than the old, then go through what Wayne had outlined to find out if there is any non-blade related problem. Bear in mind that similar blades from different manufacturers having different designs vary in their performance.
Hope this helps.
Edited 1/24/2004 12:55:24 AM ET by TOMCHARK
There is no perceptable wooble in the blade. It feels rock solid and turns very smoothly. It seemed to come on gradually I think I just noticed more recently since I was doing more detail work. The new blade seems to work about the same as the old one I guess I was just expecting it to be worlds better. And yes I did install the blade the correct direction although I did run in the room to double check after I read the question. And no offense taken about the shaky hands comment. I think I'm getting better every day but you should have seen where I started from.
What specfic blade did you get?
Is it a thin kerf?
What materials are you cutting?
Are you trying to slam the saw thru the material or cutting at a little too fast of rate?
Possible you need a backer for the material or the blade is resin loaded or you have blade wobble or a drop jambed and bent the blade or knocked it out of wack or the blade is loose and running out of round or the arbor bolt is bent and the blade is running out of round from that or the blades you have been using are unsuited for the task or the blade is running too deep into the table and you clipped the table or a piece of hardware and dulled the blade.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Its a construction series 20 DW3106. 10" 60 teeth thin kerf with anit-stick rim and anti-stick coating and carbide construction. The package says its for fine finish and is ideal for a slide miter saw. The woods I have been using it on lately is mostly clear VG fir and some maple and cherry. I am having about equal trouble with all the woods. This is not a major problem the saw is cutting fine other than leaving a frayed edge on the bottom or back of the cut piece. It happens even if I go super slow. I did put a piece tape on the wood and that does seem to fix the problem I just want to have to do that with every cut. I would be willing to buy another brand or style of blade if you think I would get cleaner cuts. Thanks
Did you look for any of those potenial problems...
The thin kerf may be the problem or the bushing as Pif stated But I would suspect the blade 1st. If you can put the blade in a table saw and run it. Try it with stiffeners if you got 'em. No or little change it's the blade.
Contact this guy. His name is Charles McCrackin and he's with Freud. Frued does have some very good blades other than what's at the Big Boxes.
[email protected]
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
right about the blade too. I've never heard anyone brag about what a good blade they've got in a DW. I use mostly Freuds coated thin kerfs. Bought a Woodmaster awhile back but haven't done any trim work since to try it on..
Excellence is its own reward!
I've never thought much of DW blades.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Although I'm sure it is very rare I did get a blade with one carbide tooth off set from the others. It took me a while to figure it out since it was the last thing I would have suspected because I started with the body of the blade and it was fine.
Scott T.
The biggest problem is that you have a DW.
I have one too so I can talk.
;)
I went thruy four blades trying to get one that balanced to the saw. This was after using irt regular for four years or so. Finally, I was talking to a DW rep about another tool problem and mentioned this. He told me that they had a problem with bad metalurgy in some bushings. This is in the drive box between armature and motor. He sent a new one and it helped a little. Contact DeWalt.
Excellence is its own reward!