Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Oct 27, 2007 04:54pm | #1

   What's the spacing on your floor joists?  Glued, screwed, and nailed 3/4" will probably be stiff enough - if it's T&G.  If it isn't, I would probably want to put some blocking at any butt joints.

1. 
   user-144543 | Oct 27, 2007 05:48pm | #2

   Yes it is T&G. I think the subfloor is called Edge Gold by weyerhouser or someone like that.

1. 
   Matt | Oct 27, 2007 07:28pm | #3

   I use Edge gold on my houses.  It's not the best available but it's a good value.

   Normally hardwood is run perpendicular to the joists, but you can go parallel if you really want to.

2. 
   Dave45 | Oct 28, 2007 04:33pm | #5

   Then it will probably come down to the spacing of your joists.  If they're 16" OC, you're probably OK since you glued, screwed, and nailed the subfloor. 

   If they're 24" OC, I would put some blocking under your subfloor.  I would block under every seam and at the midpoints.

   Note:  I'm assuming that you're dealing with "real" hardwood and not one of the engineered flooring products.  Engineered flooring is fine, but since it's usually thinner, it can flex more than "real" hardwood.  If you're using the engineered flooring, the manufacturer may have some recommendations about the need to add support to your floor.

2. 
   sledgehammer | Oct 27, 2007 07:59pm | #4

   Parallel tends to show any high or low joists making the floor looking wavey.

3. 
   MisterT | Oct 28, 2007 05:05pm | #6

   it used to be...
   but proper subfloors are a rare animal these days...

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   I have Transcended the need for Pants....

   oooohhhhmmmmmm......

1. 
   Hackinatit | Oct 28, 2007 05:28pm | #7

   It seems that every real t&g hardwood I see these days is wavy... and they are all installed on 3/4 osb. They start out fine but over a year or two begin to cup.

   I REALLY prefer at least 1 1/8" of sub/underlay if using ply/osb. The old days of 3/4 diagonal 1x seemed to be very good at allowing movement of the entire system and preventing edge swelling... but those days are long gone.

   If I were in the OP's situation, I'd stagger the seams with a BC Exterior 3/8"minimum underlay using 8d ringshanks to give the 2" cut nails some extra holding power."Fortunately, the ideas of individual liberty, private property, freedom of contract and association, personal responsibility and liability, and government power as the primary enemy of liberty and property, will not die out as long as there is a human race, simply because they are true and the truth supports itself."

   Hans-Hermann Hoppe

1. 
   user-144543 | Oct 28, 2007 06:29pm | #8

   Thanks to all. I have decided to run the wood across the joists where appropriate. The only place I will run them parallel with the joist is down the hallway. The reason being is that the joists change direction in the middle of the hallway and I didnt want the seam in the middle of the hallway. The other breaks/transitions will be where new rooms start, so it wont be a dramatic change.