I’m looking for ideas on how to make your own round, tapered porch columns for an exterior porch.
At a demo place I saw some interior columns which had mdf nailed to a piece of lumber in a spoke wheel pattern. This was covered with a cardboard tube, much like the ones you make concrete posts with, and this was covered with an oak veneer.
We temporarily have 3 2×6’s nailed together for the the posts and I would like to add some “spokes” to this to make an 8″ round, tapered column and then add the base cap and capital. Taking the 2×6’s down to work on them is not a problem since we have roof jacks.
The main question is what can be used to cover the “spokes” since these will be outside? I don’t think the concrete tubes would hold out if any pressure was put on them. What would you use for the final wrap since I think regular veneer would be too thin. These columns will be painted. Am I way off base with this?
Any thoughts, suggestions or any other way to make your own columns? We need 8 and at over $350. each it adds up.
Thanks, Krystyna
Replies
what can be used to cover the "spokes" since these will be outside?
3/8" bending plywood, in paint grade. Bending plywood is designed to follow curves (to an extent). It is sometimes called whackywood.
You might find it easier to cut circles of appropriate diameters from plywood, each with a central cut-out for the structural column. You would then use a spacer to align them along the length of the internal 2x6 column. The advantage is that you are supplying a curved base against which to strike a curve. That decreases any "inclination" to follow the straight "chord" across.
You may also find that you need to curve the plywood around your form, tack it in place, and then cut it to fit--as you are following a taper.
You can't be serious..but if you are, draw the base diameter, and the top diameter to discern the taper. Take the columns max dia and segment it to 12 staves ( 360 degrees / 12 = 30 degrees = 15 degees ts bevel IIRC)...use a biscut jointer or a toungue and groove cutter to help alighn the staves...add glue and a bunch of hands, clamps are a good thing.
remember, most tapered columns have an 'entasis' they are NOT a straight taper// a bulge in the middle helps the eye to see a straight line...funny but true.
edit: 350 a pc? go for it, it's cheap.
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Edited 10/6/2004 4:42 pm ET by SPHERE
have an 'entasis'
Sure do, and it looks a mystery without a little layout.
For what it's worth, the attachement shows how I was taught. Divide off a third. Divide the base diameter the start & end diameters, and divide it by some number (like four). Divide the remaining length by the same number of segments, and strike an arc through through them.
Which is very similar to the way I learned to camber decks.
Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
For what it's worth, the attachement shows how I was taught.
Very helpful. Thank you.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Cap
Thanks for that bit of info, I knew that the columns started their transition at 1/3. Never knew how much to taper in. I just made them eye-symetric.
I printed out the math and drawing and will file that a way.
Doug
Edited 10/8/2004 5:36 pm ET by [email protected]
No biggie.
Splitting the arc gives that "golden section" value to it.
Leave the 1/3 flat out, and you have a deck camber for boats (just need a long batten and some ducks--boy, do I not miss ducks . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
If you can accept a non-tapered column, use pieces of 8" heavy wall pvc pipe, and wrap them with veneer or bending ply. The ply is available to bend either with or across the grain, but not both, so be sure to order it the way you want it. To clamp the ply to the columns while the glue sets, cut long strips from old innertubes and wrap it like an ace bandage.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Making a tapered column is no easy task. I would check some other sources for pricing. There are all kinds of columns available for much less than $350. HD carries some fiberglass, wood and aluminum as does any builders lumber yard. There are structural as well as decorative types. Sounds like you may have only priced Chattsworth's.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
I wouldn't dream of using a veneer outside, and the taper will give you nightmares. If tjhis job can be done at all in a DIY setting, I would be amazed and kiss your toes.
Spend 230 bucks for a composite column.
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I just re-read the original question ... it says the posts will be painted. That obviates the need for wood veneer.
Krys ... sometime in the last 8-10 issues of either FHB or FWW there was an article on how to build your own tapered square column. Would that work?
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Whats your skill level, and what tools do you have?
I have built quite a few round columns, did them just as Sphere explained.
They arnt the toughest things I have ever done but they do require a bit of skill.
At $250 per I think that is a decent price, the last ones I did were 9' high, fluted and I got $850 per.
I think if I could get them for that price I might even jump on it.
Doug
for redwood turned Doric or Tuscan I have PAID 850 to 1700 each up to 9-10 feet.
Most composite ones run me between 220 and 320, depending... and they paint better too.
I couldn't build a wood one comparable to either.
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The only way that I build a wood one is out of necessity, and that doesn't come along that often.
The composite ones will not rot or split, good case for using them, and the cost is reasonable.
By the time you buy the wood for a column your half way to the cost of the composite. And if you don't get them glued up real good your going to have some very unattractive columns!
I'm sold, lets go buy the composite.
Doug
That reminds me,
One of my regular customers had some old ones splitting open this spring and I didn't have time to do a full replacement job then. I reglued and clamped and puttied up for the summer with a promise to look into replacement during the off-season
gotta get down there.
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Ed: I did see that article but unfortunately I am set on round and tapered, it just suits the style of the house since it is a reproduction Queen Ann Revival and that's what the original had. My son-in-law used that article to build two columns for either side of the entry into the living room of a custom rancher and it looked very sharp.
Doug: For tools I have access to a fully equipped shop at the neighbors so I wouldn't be doing this on my own. He is a retired woodworking teacher but he mostly does furniture and is quite set in his ways. I just wanted to get experienced advice before showing him what I wanted.
But I will check into composite and see what's available in our area or whether it would be worth the time, money and hassle to make my own. Although, it might be worth it just to get my feet kissed!! Thanks all for the advice, Krystyna
"Although, it might be worth it just to get my feet kissed!!"
I've got big lips, but your feet better be clean!
;)
Some companies make composites split in two halves to be epoxied together in place with a steel post already set, for when the above loads require extra strength. That cane be time consuming as well, but can be more convenient sometimes vs removing the old post.
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