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I am rehabing 15 — 4 X 8 TDL cedar windows. I have carefully removed the glass for replacement later and am ready to paint having removed all prior paint, soot etc. down to bare wood. QUESTION: Do I prime and paint now, before I glaze or glaze then paint? I hope the answer is paint now because it will be so much easier. I think.
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Caan you have the sashes out for a while? You can certainly prime and paint them first, but the glazing compound needs to be coated also if you are using something like Dap. So its easier to wait until putty firms a little and then prime and paint exterior of the sash. In some weather you can do this in a day or two, other times the putty won't skin over for weeks. And this is where you get good at cutting a line with a paint brush, to cover the putty plus about 1/32 onto the glass.
*I was taught over the years, repeatedly, from more than one learned painter, that you should prime the bare wood before any putty is installed. Regardless if it is for the bedding-coat for the panes themselves or for the topping beveled-coat. Especially from old woodwork, the chemistry of the wood (for lack of a better phrase) is probably gone. (The wood is dry). Therefore it just soaks up the solvents from the glazing compounds. If it does, there will be nothing to hold the consistency of the putty together, and the new glazing will either fail prematurely, or not have the same opportunity to "grab" the muntins as well. In short, the new compound will not bond properly.Prime it first.
*Yes, youre right. It tells you on the can to prime the rabbet. In the old days, I think they just hit the rabbet with linseed oil, then painted everythin after the house was built.
*This is great! The responses that is. My first time use of this taunton Feature. The good news is that all these windows are in my workshop, toasty warm and dry. Therefore I can paint without threat of Seattle's endless rain. Moreover, these windows are going into a greenhouse for my wife who is good natured enough to wait the proper lengths of time for things, unlike some paying customers. BOTTOM LINE: I will prime and finish paint all the sash, then replace the glass with putty. I'll probably use a dark gray that will match nicely with the Hunter Green finish coat. Your help is much appreciated.
*don.... just prime the sash... including the muntins...then glaze...(putty).. then prime the glazing compound, then finish paint...everything.... two coats...
*You can do this lots of ways. Mine would be:1. Prime everything2. Finish the interior side only3. Glaze (putty)4. Wait for the putty to harden5. Finish the exteriorAny way you do it, you have to carefully cut in the outside. This way saves also doing that on the inside.-- J.S.
*I prefer to use Penetral...and really splash it on...Then follow the above steps...No need for other primer before glazing...just the Penetral...by Flood.near the Flooded stream,aj
*Whaddaya mean endless rain. It hasnt rained since.....well....yesterday.
*Penetrol...Anyways, I agree with Lonecat that linseed oil is great for the rabbets, and Penetrol may serve the same purpose: The glazing compound gets a grip, is less likely to dry out dry out and crack due to absorbtion of its solvents by the wood, and if water seeps in, there's less chance of rot damage. Priming the rabbets would be my second choice.You'll want that Penetrol when you apply that silky smooth oil-based interior trim paint, right?Good luck, Steve
*Boy, Penetral - I'm old enough to remember when we just used shellac or tung oil in the rabbit.
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I am rehabing 15 -- 4 X 8 TDL cedar windows. I have carefully removed the glass for replacement later and am ready to paint having removed all prior paint, soot etc. down to bare wood. QUESTION: Do I prime and paint now, before I glaze or glaze then paint? I hope the answer is paint now because it will be so much easier. I think.