We have an old house that needs ducting. Can you recommend a good book or two to learn some of the basics?
With woodstove heat, at least for now, would it be advisable to put the the cold air return “high” near the stove to move the heat?
We have an old house that needs ducting. Can you recommend a good book or two to learn some of the basics?
With woodstove heat, at least for now, would it be advisable to put the the cold air return “high” near the stove to move the heat?
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Replies
<With woodstove heat, at least for now, would it be advisable to put the the cold air return "high" near the stove to move the heat?>
I want to do the same thing if and when I build my house, so
I'm curious about this same question myself.
One of the best places to look, esp for ease of installation, are the various flex duct web sites. A couple of them even have easy to use pressure drop spreadsheets that are free downloads.
You will get all kinds of hits with a search of 'flex ducting'. The stuff is cheap, easy to use and comes in convienient 25 ft lengths compressed into a box.
About 15 years ago I wanted to air condition my two story restaurant that was built around 1850. I called 3 different companies and they wanted to butcher the place to put it in. I got a book on heat loss calculations (not hard to calculate) and did it with flex duct with out even messing up the wall paper. The place you buy the heating and cooling will usually do the calculations for you. I spent a lot of time thinking about how to get where with the duct. The flex duct is not as smooth as metal duct (uses a little more energy to move the air) but it has the insulation already on it. You can drop it down a shaft or pull it under a porch. It is cheaper and quicker than metal. You can do it yourself. I do not think it is as good as the metal duct but in my case I did not destroy the looks of my building nor my pocket book I think you can get it at big box now. I know you can get all your metal parts there. If I were to do it over again I would do the same. Al though I have seen some new installations that are using real small ducts with what I assume is higher air flow. I intend to check it out more.
jms: where you the post in HVAC-talk I suggested come here for advice??
Sorry, I don't remember so I'm not sure...
around here we have a place called 'locke supply' that has flex duct about as cheap as i can find. see if you have one close. a quick hint with installing that a havc showed me was. when you get ready to attach to the takeoff ,pull the insulation back about 10" then put on and tape [uses special tape not reg duct tape] and a nylon tie ,then pull ins. back over joint and another nylon tie. it sure made it a lot easier. larry
It would be good to have two returns, one high and one low. Install dampers or louvers or something. Use the high return when the wood stove is on and the low return for furnace heat.
Of course, your thermostat for the furnace needs to have a fan-only switch so you can run the fan when the wood stove is on.
I personally like Carrier brand thermostats because they don't require batteries. I've purchased, then returned, other brands after reading the directions and finding out that if the battery dies while I'm away from the house, the heat quits and the pipes will freeze.