I tend to go through my spade bits fast. Usually, I end up going through wood, then a steel stud or going through wood, and then hitting plaster/lathe, etc.
As they get dull, I just toss them in a bucket (along with my other stuff). Any of ya’ll take out the time to sharpen bits or do you just chuck em….
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Replies
I sharpen.
Just a few passes passes with a file and they are good to go.
It's a small thing, but I get a lot of satisfaction when someone uses one of my bits and says, "whoa, that's sharp".
I do however file the outside edge cutters off the new stlye spades when I resharpen. Just easier for me.
Sharpen them, first using an aluminum oxide wheel, followed by a wet wheel system. When I can find the time. Which, lately, I've had little or no success at doing. I also knock off the spurs on the new ones, if they haven't already been beaten down by nails.
Spade bits in the 50's-70's were heavier than todays bits, plus they were designed to be readily sharpened.
Eventually the manufacturers figured they could sell more by designing spade bits that do not easily sharpen....
The "NEW & Improved" speed bore appeared in the 90's.....once the little tips wore down or you chiseled out a nail there was so little to put a file to that the spade bit was now a disposable commodity.
I still sharpen all the older ones I can scrounge...I even work on the new ones to beat their design that prevents resharpening.
.........................Iron Helix
Those "Speedbore" and similar bits with the spurs can be more difficult to sharpen. Most people who sharpen this kind use a common file or grinding wheel and just remove the spurs. angling the file so the outer edge touches first gives some of the same benefits of the spur and can be done with a flat file.
An alternative I have found, one that will maintain the advantages of the spur, is to use a rat-tail file and to make a scalloped edge between the outer circumference and the pilot at the center of the bit. The outer spur becomes more acute and once you do the job once all subsequent sharpening become less involved. Just be sure to angle the file in the right direction to give the edge relief and not reversed if you want to cut and not just burn holes. Smaller spade bits can be filed with a smaller rat-tailed file or a chainsaw file. Whichever is handiest.
While you can file while holding the bit I find I get better results faster if I clamp the bit in a vise. In a pinch I have been known to take the drill, bit still firmly clamped in the chuck, and place this so the bit hangs over the edge of a step. I step on the drill to hold everything tight and work with a file from my tool belt. A few quick strokes. Flip and a few strokes on the other side and I can go back to work. A good sharp bit saves on batteries for the cordless.
I like to use more sophisticated bits for holes in wood, a forstner works well, but spade bits can't be beat, worse case your out of a couple of bucks with a bent bit, where the bit is likely to be abused by being run into concrete or sand plaster common to old work and remodeling.
Use a number of 1/4 HP 6" size grinders with different 4-5" AlOxide white wheels with various contours, and use these to sharpen about any type of bits from spade to Forstner. Do it by eyeball, no fixtures. Good results down to 3/64s or smaller, the bigger, the easier to sharpen. About 10 seconds per bit, done dry with slack pan nearby.
I gave up spade bits for Lent.
They always seemed to me to do a fairly poor job of drilling, and don't take too well to the occasional run-in with a nail.
Just plain old twist drill bits seem to hold up better for me.
Why should I care about posterity? What's posterity ever done for me?
I sharpen my spade bits with a Dremel tool & small grinding wheel...
ToolDoc
Proud Member of the Delta & Klein Tradesman Club & Milwaukee HD Club & Knots Bad Boys & Girls Club..
A Non ~ Member of the Knots Bandsaw Guru Club..
Edited 10/12/2003 10:50:26 AM ET by TOOLDOC
I lose 'em before they need sharpening. El diablo pays for 'em anyway.