Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Feb 14, 2003 05:57pm | #1

   Some people here reccomend using a spray bottle of water to mist the texture and then scape it off with a drywall knife. This would reduce the amount of dust, and by placing drop cloths under the area you are working on, you minnimize the clean up. After scraping, you may want to rent a Porter Cable d/w sander that connects to your shop vac. and clean up the ceiling a little more. I have never done it like this, and it seems labor intensive to me, but cost effective

   If it is just the living room, my preference would be to hang 3/8" drywall over the existing ceiling, tape, finish, and repaint. I do a considerable amount of d/w work and have all the equipment, so that is the easy route for me. Cost is greater, but in my case the labor would probably be less because I tend to be slower doing something I don't like (scraping d/w, stripping wallpaper,etc.).

2. 
   andybuildz | Feb 14, 2003 06:11pm | #2

   I have to agree with Dave,,,,,rerocking over the existing in the long run will probably be the least tedious and give you the best results.

    I'd consider ripping down the old rock first but you could go over the existing. Personal preference.

   Be well

            Namaste

                      andy

   "Attachment is the strongest block to realization"
   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   JBerg | Feb 14, 2003 07:23pm | #3

   Dave and Andy, Valentines day detant is on in matters of the home. Your advice given in due season can be a healing balm with this contentious issue: to rip out and replace or to cover over as suggested. My wife's heart has set course. I can but steer a direction. I must admit "covering over" hasn't worked well as a general rule in other applications. I wonder if it could here.

   Money is tight. The house is 1450 sf. I might try the scrape test in a closet per the first post and see how it goes. Sweat equity w/ some professional help to retexture might provide some cost savings.

   Then again, there's always a point to let the professionals do what they do best. (Besides our economy depends on higher degree of specialization.) If I were to consider 100% replacement, would you hazard a cost per sf? Assume that I would be willing to rip out, remove, and haul off the old sr and the professional were to provide all other tml.

   Oncemore, thanks for your timely and thoughtful input.

   "Knowledge is proud that he has learn'd so much; Wisdom is humble that he knows no more." -William Cowper, Winter Walk at Noon

1. 
   JBerg | Feb 14, 2003 08:06pm | #4

   Note to self: {detant} proper sp. - detente, and to think I was an English minor....

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Feb 14, 2003 08:32pm | #5

   I suggested rock over, because a tare out is more of a mess than I would want, particularly if it is a single story with insulation above the ceiling. By all means try the scraping in a closet to see how it works. For that matter, if you don't like the results, try hanging over in the closet also. Get a good stud finder and mark the joist locations. Measure and cut a piece of 3/8" d/w and transfer the joist measurements to the cut piece. Use 2" coarse thread d/w srews and construction adhesive to hang the new board.  Closets are sometimes a real pain to hang the ceiling in because  a full size piece is difficult to get up pass the shelf cleats and door cassing. If it gives you a problem, cut it on the joist closest to the center and install in two pieces.  If you are comfortable with that, then move on to a small room and try your hand there. 3/8" d/w is cheaper and lighter than 1/2 or 5/8" board. For large areas You could rent a d/w panel lift at about $20.00 a day and get it done over a few weekends.  The beauty of a panel lift is not only is easier on your back, but once the board is up near the ceiling, you can fine tune the fit and location before pinning it up. If you don't want to try finishing after it is hung, you can always call around for the pros then.

1. 
   JBerg | Feb 14, 2003 08:43pm | #6

   Great advice. Thanks!JB

3. 
   ken1putt | Feb 18, 2003 05:59am | #7

   I've been away from here lately, so I'll have to apologize for the late reply to your question. BUT, as a DIYer, with somewhat more time than money, I scraped and re-mudded a 14x21 livingroom and a 12x14 bedroom.

   We were living in the rooms at the time, and a test of the wet method revealed that it wasn't all that clean and easy.

   After some experimenting with a putty knife and my shop vac, I determined that it might be possible to scrape the stuff off and have it go straight into the vacuum.

   I ultimately used a 4" floor scraper that was about 18 inches long, duct taped to the side of one section of vac pipe, with a narrow floor tool attached. I enclosed the working end with some additional duct tape.

   With one of the yellow Shop Vac drywall dust bags in the vac, it gets almost all the popcorn, and lets very, very little dust get loose.

   With that tool, I could do the job in stages without having to put drop cloths all over the room.

   K

   -

   -

   "Arguing with anonymous strangers on the Internet is a sucker's game because they almost always turn out to be -- or to be indistinguishable from -- self righteous sixteen-year-olds posessing infinite amounts of free time." - Neil Stephenson, Cryptonomicon

1. 
   JBerg | Feb 18, 2003 06:30am | #9

   Ken (and Elcid72)

   Thanks for the ideas. I like knowing someone has gone down the scrape path. The tool suggestions have me encouraged and foolish enough to give it a go...

4. 
   FastEddie1 | Feb 18, 2003 06:19am | #8

   I have always found that trying to repaint the ceiling does a great job of causing the popcorn to either fall off the ceiling (wet with paint) or stick tenaciously to the roller.

   I think I have seen a gadget at Home Depot that looks like a 8-10" joint knife with a plastic bag attached...you scrape it along the ceiling and the goop falls into the bag.  Never tried it.

   Do it right, or do it twice.

5. 
   Clay | Feb 18, 2003 06:51am | #10

   I scrape that stuff off all the time.  Your wife is right it's awful!  I sometimes dry scrape being careful not to go too deep and then paint over the stubble texture that is left.  If you also have cracks peeling tape etc. you will want to do a pretty thorough scraping and then make repairs and retexture or skim coat.  I bought a little scraper at Lowe's that has a frame which a garbage bag attaches to..... the scrapings fall into the bag as I scrape them off.  It works pretty good.  You can dampen the ceiling with a spray bottle of water which will loosen the texture and help keep the dust down a bit.  You still have to tarp below where you are working.  I like to use fiberglass tape and the 90 minute (setting type) mud for repairs and to improve on the usual shabby feathering job that was originally done.  I often texture with a mix of regular ready mix mud thinned with water and rolled on with a textured sponge roller then I knockdown the texture with a light hand and a 6" putty knife while it is thickened but still soft.  I usually hit it with a scrub brush to knock loose any crumbs before I prime it.  Stippling with a 4" paintbrush followed by the knockdown procedure works well too.

1. 
   JBerg | Feb 18, 2003 06:09pm | #11

   Wow, I'd like to see one of your jobs! I'm going to get started on it this weekend. I may come back with some follow up questions; however, your response was very thorough in its application. Thanks!

1. 
   Clay | Feb 18, 2003 07:33pm | #12

   You're welcome!  Go get that nasty stuff off your ceilings! (:-)