Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 26, 1999 09:19am | #1

   *
   James , the wall - ceiling transition is an inside corner and would technicly be a cove if it were radiused . The bullnose corner bead is designed for outside corners . We use a product called " No Coat " I think , that we buy through " Grabber " it's advertised in several magizines . About the only thing I can think of that you need to do differently is hold your drywall back at outside corners [ both peices flush with the corner stud depending on the radius ] so it does'nt interfere with the corner bead . Chuck

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 26, 1999 05:10pm | #2

   *James - definitely use 5/8" if you want to minimize sagging. Even better would be to lath out the underside with 1 x 3 on 16" centers, but that probably isn't worth the trouble. We have used many plastice products from a company called Trim-Tex, available through our drywall supplier, and have had good results. They have a huge selection of corner beads and all kinds of other neat things for doing easy, clean drywall jobs. They recommend using spray adhesive to attach some of their products, which does work, and is fast, but may not give you the control that using nails does. If you are familiar with Durabond, a setting joint compound, we use it as a first coat on corner beads because it is much stronger than regular joint compound, you can put it on thicker, and it doesn't shrink or crack. Just don't get too much on - it doesn't sand easily.

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 26, 1999 05:48pm | #3

   *Chuck, Thanks for your prompt response. You are clearly correct re: cove on inside corners where ceiling meets wall. But I do have one spot that is an outside corner where ceiling meets wall. I have removed a portion of the stairwell wall going down the stairs to the basement landing where I have constructed a knee wall and will have a rake rail. I was trying to visualize the effect on the bead if it were placed on drywall of different thicknesses.

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 27, 1999 08:20pm | #4

   *Right on, Nick. 1/2" will not cut it on 24" centers. James-I would add that a good tip if you do not fir it out is to install 2x4 blocking every 48" for sheetrock edges to line up nice and keep from moving, ergo cracking the joints. These blocks do not have to be nailed to TJM's, they can be screwed from both edges of drywall and just "float" between the joists. Just chop a lot of 21" (approx.) studs and fill in as you go.Also, if you are new to drywall work, keep everything as simple and easy as possible-it takes time to get the feel for it.Good luck,Scott*******

1. 
   Guest_ | Aug 28, 1999 05:28am | #5

   *Scott, Thanks for the input and the suggestion re: floating blocks. I want to be sure I understand. In Fine Homebuilding Issue No. 99 (Jan 96) Tim Hanson described a technique for "invisible butt joints."He recommended using plywood that is the same thickness as the board. First, trim an inch off the width of the sheet, hten crosscut it into equal strips. Next staple strips of 1/16 in. poster board to the lon edges of the plywood strips. The poster board goes between the drywall and the plywood (away from the joint). The butt joints are arranged to go between the joists and when the adjacent drywall panel is screwed to the plywood strip, a shallow dip is created where the drywall bends over the poster board. This creates a hollow for the tape. Your suggestion of adding floating 21" 2x4s seems similar to Hanson's suggestion for butt joints. Am I correct? If so, do you think 5/8 plywood of say 6" or 8" width would work as well as 2/4? By the way, Hanson's recommendation was for drywall applied to joists on 16" centers. I spoke to him by phone and he thought the technique would work for 5/8 drywall if the width of the plywood panels was about 11 inches. Your comments and suggestions are appreciated.