Hello everyone, work, the babies and the house have been kicking my behind.
I have a question about ceiling drywall installation.
I figure the first run would entail using two 14′ ers.
Question 1 (from the diagram)
The local drywall supplier’s does not stock 16′ 5/8″ I would have to order ($$?).
What is another option here? Limiting butt seems, cost etc.
Question 2
The yellow area. Should I use the ripped boards up along the ridge? Or should they be at the walls edge?
thanks
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“If you come to a fork in the road, take it”
Replies
Just a bump with a smaller image size for the dialuppers.
You can order large/wide board but it is a lot more money per SF than regular 4x8. You have to decide how much you care about the extra butt joints. I would use (2) 12's and half an 8' to make 28 feet. Scrapping 2' off of expensive 16's is.... expensive.
Put the rip up by the ridge. Start with full sheets at the wall line and work up from there. No point lifting a full sheet any higher than necessary. You should probably rent a lift anyway.
Thanks.
I guess adding one extra joint isn't going to kill me.
Rip at ridge. Got it.
I just went ahead and bought the lift. Around here it will not be hard to resale.
Thanks again!-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
Make your butt joints fall BETWEEN joists. Then use those pre-formed gizmos (I forget the name, someone will chime in with it shortly) that bend the butt joints inward thus creating a taper. Or just put shims behind the butt edges and a piece of stiff plywood behind them (bridgeing the joint). The drywall screws will pull in the butt edges creating a taper.
If you fur out the ceiling joists with 1x3 perpendicular to joists, then you can use full sheets of 10 footers and only have tapered joints.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
I thought of the furring option.
I always wondered how that effects the outlets, cans and what not. Do you have to make the reveals 1" instead of 1/2",
And is the extra work/cost involved worth furring worth it? (I imagine you can for sure have smooth flat ceiling with this though)
I am going to have the joints run free as you suggested. Probably go with the 'homemade' option as opposed to the "fancy" ones however.
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"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
I see a bunch of pluses for furring out and running the rock the "other" way.
shleppin 10 footers is easier
10 footers in 5/8 easier to buy
you can put fur strips 12" on center to reduce drywall sag and use 1/2 inch
10 footers on ceiling is easier to maneuver
only tapered joints on ceiling
you can "true" the ceiling plane with the fur strips and shims
more insulation (search this forum for "Mooney wall")
more ????
You will need to adjust with collars or drop any ceiling fixtures the appropriate amount thickness of the fur strips. Use 2 screws (1 5/8" or 2" length) per joist thru the fur strips.
Personally I wouldn't put recessed cans in a ceiling especially a vaulted ceiling, but that's a whole nuther thread!
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?