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Drywall sheathing?

CaseyF | Posted in General Discussion on October 14, 2006 07:20am

Hi all,

Has anyone worked with exterior, “sheathing” drywall? A builder I work for is using it on the exterior of their homes, and it just seemed like an awfully bad idea to me. Plus, it was being put on when wet, and I’m just wondering how long it will be before it gets moldy. And this besides the fact that it seems to take a lot longer than using plywood. Maybe it works just fine, and it has obviously passed inspection, but I’m just really curious.

And one more question. How much do ya’ll overlap your building wrap (tyvek and such) when you have a horizontal lap? I’ll go check out their recommendations, but I’m just curious what everyone does?

Thanks,

Casey

www.streets.org
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  1. User avater
    PeteDraganic | Oct 14, 2006 07:53pm | #1

    It is required on some buildings because of its fire resistance.

    I perfomed contract work onm two large assisited living facilities that were wood-framed and had walls sheathed on the exterior (and interior) with gypsum.  Wide crown staples were used.. maybe even glued.

    It was terrible for the application of sime siding products we used (faux cedar shakes) beacuse they were only 4'x2' panels, with 2'oc studs... only 1 nail per panel to keep it in place at times.  never more than 2.

    I can see only problems in the future with this type of application.  Mold being one, moisture rot being another.

    One of the projects I mentioned was in a high moisture area and I am sure that any problems conceivable will be likely to occur here.

    Hey, maybe I should contact the building about some preventative inspections and the sort.

    http://www.petedraganic.com/

  2. Piffin | Oct 14, 2006 09:04pm | #2

    It is probably not just sheetrock, but at minimum a type X gypsum board. It is there for fire rating, is much denser than sheetrock, and I think it has some moisture resistance built into the skin.

    I think the X stands for exterior rated, but it could also mean Xtremely heavy

     

     

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    1. User avater
      Gene_Davis | Oct 14, 2006 10:11pm | #4

      Coulda been this:

      SHEETROCK¯ Brand FIRECODE¯ Core Gypsum Sheathing has moisture-resistant paper on both sides, along with a moisture-resistant core, for added resistance to moisture and climatic changes. Suitable as a base for a variety of exterior finish systems, these panels are ideal for homes, apartments, motels and light commercial buildings.

      100% recycled moisture-resistant paper on both sides

      FIRECODE¯ (Type X) Core

      Score and snap easily

      Low cost

      Or this:

      FIBEROCK¯ Brand Aqua-Tough™ Sheathing Panels offer superior long-term bonding, flexural strength, and fastener-holding strength when compared to glass-mat-faced or paper-faced gypsum sheathing products. They provide superior adhesive attachment and will stay flat over framing, reducing exterior system installation time. These panels have no paper or glass-mat facing so there are no loose glass fibers to irritate installers´ skin. The lack of paper or glass-mat facing also results in greater fastener-holding power. Because of this product´s superior strength and fastener-holding power, greater framing spacing and fastener spacing may be used in many assemblies, reducing total system installation costs. FIBEROCK Brand Aqua-Tough Sheathing Panels are warranted for 10 years against manufacturing defects, and for 12 months of weather exposure.

      Uniform composition provides strength and water resistance, with no facing layer to delaminate

      Embossed pattern on back of panel facilitates drainage of incidental water

      Maintains strength when surface is cut or abraded

      Provides superior fastener-holding strength

      Can be exposed to weather for up to 12 months after application

      Can be framed 24" o.c. when used in 30 psf or less designs

      Maintains flatness between framing members

      For use in most exterior systems

      Neither sounds right as sheathing under shingles or claps, but for stucco, EIFS, masonry, it might be right.

      Edited 10/14/2006 3:16 pm ET by Gene_Davis

  3. jpeeks | Oct 14, 2006 09:51pm | #3

    its code in city areas, fire rating and the distance to the next house.

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