Replies

1. 
   Shep | Jan 12, 2009 04:53am | #1

   I like using a sheetrock crimper to set the corner bead; it does a pretty good job of setting it properly.

   I also use 3M high strength contact adhesive to help hold it in place, and then nails as needed.

   Once the bead is set, before you nail it off and tape, and if you don't use too much spray adhesive, you can hold a wide taping knife across the wall, and see if the bead needs any adjustment. A block of wood and a hammer can make some minor adjustments.

2. 
   DonCanDo | Jan 12, 2009 04:56am | #2

   I'm not a full-time drywaller so I'm interested to hear what others have to say, but I will share how I do it.

   I use nails rather than screws and run them in  at a slight angle away from the corner.  This pulls the corner bead a little flatter, but not too much.  The corner bead still has a little flare at the corner.

   My first coat of mud is usually Durabond setting compound.  Since it doesn't shrink as it cures, I can pretty much fill in the concave section between the drywall and the corner of the corner bead.  Subsequent coats (usually, it's just one coat) or regular compound get feathered out a little further than the first coat and fill in any irregularities in the first coat, but I don't build any more thickness at the corner.

3. 
   ptp | Jan 12, 2009 05:19am | #3

   I use tape-on corners (the paper faced kind) and roll them with an outside corner roller. This type of corner is more rigid than a nail-on and less prone to deformation. The roller helps you tweak it this way or that to achieve an even set.

4. 
   hammer1 | Jan 12, 2009 06:11am | #4

   I don't rush when placing metal corner bead. The crimpers have never worked well for me. I use a 6" tape knife held perpendicular to the bead so it's just right for mud and the nailing flange isn't even, or out, more than the corner. We usually plumb the corner bead with a mag level, too. Hand nailed every 8" or as needed. The bead is pushed firmly over the corner but not to the extreme. I work both sides as I go.

   If the corner bead sticks out too far, you end up with a curve from the flat wall toward the corner. This shows badly when baseboard or crown molding goes up. It can effect the fit on outside miters. The better tapers are trying to keep this to a minimum and use a 10" knife or more so the transition is as flat as possible.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

5. 
   ruffmike | Jan 12, 2009 06:37am | #5

   I am a drywaller and I have not seen a professional company use anything but tape on bead for at least a decade.

   If you are worried about damage control use a Nocoat product, although I believe any tape one is superior to nail on bead in that aspect.

   Nail on bead is a disaster if installed twisted or on a bad corner.
   Just so it is known, I put up miles of nail on back in the day. 10 cents a foot, piece work.

   When putting up tape on bead your taping knife is in your hand and you can gauge as you install to make sure it is coatable.

   Mike

   Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/11/2009 10:39 pm by ruffmike

1. 
   Jer | Jan 12, 2009 02:31pm | #7

   I don't do that much sheet rocking any more, but when I do, I use the tape on bead now as well. When you apply it, do you use the rollers after it's initially set, or just a knife? I have used both but don't own any rollers and have found the knife works ok. I guess it's practice, more than anything, that gets the job done right and quickly.

2. 
   Jer | Jan 12, 2009 02:32pm | #8

   Oh, and do you use regular mud when setting? Green-blue?

6. 
   Dinosaur | Jan 12, 2009 07:05am | #6

   Strait-Flex.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....