*
Drywall 101 questions: Tore down old 12×12 ceiling tiles to do plumbing & electrical reparis. Ready to put up new drwall. Currently 1×2 furring strips (12″ apart)are securly nailed & screwed to joists (through olddddd existing plaster ceiling). Furrings run e/w, joists run n/s. Do I run the drywall n/s or e/w? Do the seams at the 4’and/or the 8′ edges HAVE to center on a furring? Or is this overkill? Should all sheets run same direction, and should all ‘rows’ stagger like shingles so no 2 seams line up?
Thanks for help!
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Skim-coating with joint compound covers texture, renews old drywall and plaster, and leaves smooth surfaces ready to paint.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Drywall 101 questions: Tore down old 12x12 ceiling tiles to do plumbing & electrical reparis. Ready to put up new drwall. Currently 1x2 furring strips (12" apart)are securly nailed & screwed to joists (through olddddd existing plaster ceiling). Furrings run e/w, joists run n/s. Do I run the drywall n/s or e/w? Do the seams at the 4'and/or the 8' edges HAVE to center on a furring? Or is this overkill? Should all sheets run same direction, and should all 'rows' stagger like shingles so no 2 seams line up?
Thanks for help!
*
I'd run the drywall in as long of sheets as you can buy and handle, perpendicular to the 1X2's and make sure ends land between two 1X2's. Put a cut off strip of drywall above ("under"?) the end as a spacer and then screw through the cut end and spacer to the joists above. That pull's ends up so you in effect have tapered edges at the ends as well as sides. Stagger end seams like a in a common bond pattern. It's not very often I've bothered with the "tapered" ends but it does make taping easier and the finished product a little more "planer" and you have a built in advantage to doing it.