I was given a large amount of 20′ Number 3 2″x 6″s (graded locally) that have been stored of 16 years in an enclosed building in Mississippi. They are lighter in weight than I would expect. I had planned to use them to frame the roof on an addition to my house but am concerned about their strength. So have large knots which I can shorten for bracing if needed. Rafter length of new proposed roof is 28′ 6″ from ridge to top of outside wall, this also covers 10′ of old roof line. Would I be better of buying new?
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#3 is "utility" grade and won't meet code in most jurisdictions for general residential framing. That being said, if the lumber was stored properly (straight and flat and off the floor), in the dry and isn't full of bugs or fungal problems, like dry rot, it's probably OK for blocking and such or building small outbuildings or concrete forms, etc.
What species are they? And the lightness is probably due to their being really dry.
Edited 11/6/2002 8:25:38 AM ET by Notchman
Lumber type is yellow pine. The funny thing is this lumber was sold to my boss to bulid a two story house with. As far as building codes here, they only apply to new construction from what I can gather.
If your project is going to be inspected, you might inquire about the use of #3 grade. Also, try to get an opinion from Boss Hog on the rafter application.
Boss Hog has mixed feelings about this one.
If they're to be clear span rafters, I'd say they're way, way undersized. With a 28' 6" rafter length, how many supports are there?
The southern pine council has span table that would probably apply in this case:
http://www.southernpine.com/tables/34.htm
They include the #3 grade, so I wouldn't rule out its use entirely. But you'll notice that the lumber is only good for around 11', depending on spacing.When buying and selling are controlled by legislation, the first things to be bought and sold are legislators. --P.J. O'Rourke
SYP is a very strong species, and barring rot, your biggest problem will be getting fasteners into it.. since it gets harder as it ages..
if you can brace the spans at the 1/3 points, with say, a strong back, it should do just fine, that will reduce the spans to just under 9' ..
it seems that you can run braces to the old structure , right ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yes. I had planned to run supports from the top plate of the original wall to the new rafters. I had also planned to use two full lenght 2x6s nailed and glued together. He gave me several bundles of these so I have plenty.
I've re-used some 76 year old lumber in remodeling my place. When you need a full two inch two by, you have to. What you have is like used lumber from a 16 year old building, only better, because it has no nails or damage from a previous use. Just look up the engineering numbers for #3 SYP, and design within those limits. And use common sense regarding knots, fork lift damage, etc.
-- J.S.
I've got some 5/4x6 SYP in my shop attic for five or six years and I do a lot of demo of stuff built with SYP.
In my experience, this stuff doesn't really lighten up that much with age. It tends to stay pretty heavy. So when you mention how light weight it is and your southern location, I start to remember all those TV shows about Formosan Termites...
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