Replies

1. 
   Bill_Richardson | Sep 01, 2000 12:12am | #1

   *
   Glenn, Apart from mentioning a 12' opening that you want to create, what is your entire opening dimension? Well, it doesn't matter, if you already have two holes in this brick veneer started, I would proceed cautiously with the enlargement. I'm not a mason, but I think that I would try to cut away the unneeded brick/mortar with a diamond cutting wheel mounted on an angle grinder. You could try and chisel it away, but unless you are practiced you may wind up taking away more than you bargain for, that stuff is brittle. You don't mention what is behind the brick veneer, this would add some support, but then again depending upon your project there may end up being little left behind. For support I would get busy with some 2x4s or 1 bys, a saw and make a supporting scaffolding to fit under and support any "hanging" brick veneer. Don't bang it together with nails either, just cut everything to fit and support it with 2-3 uprights with just enough extra length to support your scaffold and not push everthing sideways and out of whack. You don't want ruin or crack the veneer before you install your lintel. As an after thought you might want to brace the veneer on the side also and this may be more difficult as you may (?) not have anything nearby to brace against. A really heavy object on the floor will do, brace a board against it and the wall, on the wall place a large flat board or any small (ie-yardxyard) plywood sheets against the wall to help prevent bowing, or god forbid the whole thing coming down on your noggin. Good luck, hope this helps.

2. 
   Guest_ | Sep 01, 2000 02:19am | #2

   *
   Glenn,

   How high and wide is the existing wall face?

   How big are the two opennings that now exist in the wall face?

   Is there any other opennings on the second story and where are they located relative to the hole you want to make?

   Can you or will you be able to access the inside face of the area that you want to open in order to install an angle lintel?

   Need to know before I can give an answer.

   Gabe

3. 
   Glenn_Hutchinson | Sep 01, 2000 06:49pm | #3

   *
   The wall face is 23' wide x 18' high with 10' of wall on one side and 1' of wall on the other (the 1' side butts into a chimney). There are 3 openings in this wall. One door and one window on the first floor with the out-to-out dimension being 12' with approx. 4' between. The third opening is on the second floor above one of the lower openings. The interior framing is 2x4 construction and will be enlarged as well with the use of a built-up header.

4. 
   Guest_ | Sep 04, 2000 02:12pm | #4

   *
   I did thi same thing last fall for an addition. It was pretty easy, took an afternoon, and a partner saw with a diamond blade and a 6"WF steel beam. You have to remove a few bricks above the opening area overtop studs to needle the hanging veneer for support(3 places should do it 4' apart) then remove enough to slip the steel beam in for a header for the brick veneer. Once the steel is set, you can then remove all the brick below. Keith C

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 04, 2000 03:22pm | #5

   *Hi Glenn,Sorry for the delay in answering. I assume you want to insert the angle from inside in order to maintain a clean surface on the exterior brick face.Install a surface plate on the face of your brick wall with bracing angled from the ground. This is done to prevent the wall from falling down during this operation.Install supports for your ceiling and wood structure first. Open the wall and expose the whole side.Using a sawzall to minimize damage, cut out the studs/headers and leave the plates.If the wall is covered with ply or OSB you will have to use a small chain saw to cut out the remaining openning. Be careful not to over penetrate the wall covering and hit into the brick.You should now have enough room to insert an angle once the brick is cut.Use a masonry blade on a quickcut and follow the line of the mortar and extend it 12 inches pass the outside line of your intended openning.Next cut a second line along the mortar of the bricks below the first. This is so that you can remove the entire row of bricks below where you want to insert the angle, WITHOUT banging needlessly on the wall and risking more bricks falling than you want.You should now have enough space to insert your angle. Once you have the angle laying on the bricks and ready to raise into place, put a layer of mortar between the top of the steel shelf and the brick. When you jack the beam into place the mortar will form a solid bed for your brick and any excess will simply squeeze out. Re-install the bricks at both ends and leave the whole thing alone for a few days.Later, go back with the quick cut and slice the side of the bottom half of your window and you're in business.Good luck,Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 04, 2000 04:09pm | #6

   *Hi Glenn, I re-thought the span and I would recommend an I beam with a brick shelf attached to the bottom, I don't like the 12 foot span. I do it in commercial but my angle beams are a little bigger size than you would encounter or could fit inside your wall composition.The only difference is that the I beams is also supported inside by a metal posts at both ends and framed into your wall.If you can picture the I beam as the new header for your window openning and the brick shelf extending out to support your brick.Same proceedure as above otherwise.Gabe

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 04, 2000 07:39pm | #7

   *Glenn,

   I'm trying to get a sense of that you have over there. Is this graphic close to your conditions? The reasons for asking is that even though it's not really hard to do what you ask. . . you only get on chance if things start to go wrong.One thing that's apparent is that you will only have 1' of brick supporting the veneer. This could be a potential problem. The transparent blue section is what you want to remove, correct?

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

5. 
   Glenn_Hutchinson | Sep 05, 2000 05:46pm | #8

   *
   Joe,

   Your drawing is right on except the upper window is "over there". The one foot of support is not a problem because the chimney brick interlocks with the wall and acts as a pilaster to help support this area.

6. 
   Glenn_Hutchinson | Sep 06, 2000 12:59am | #9

   *
   Any ideas on enlarging two smaller openings into one 12' opening on the first floor of a two-story brick veneer wall? Can the brick hold itself up for a couple hours until a new lintel is installed? If not, how do you brace the brick above?

7. 
   Guest_ | Sep 06, 2000 12:59am | #10

   *

   Glenn,

   Here's an approach I would take. I would make three pockets about 3' each in the brick wall so I could bolt a double 2x6 into the stub wall. These would provide the temporary support as you remove the old lintels and install the new one.

   I would then remove the blue section first then the red with the two lintels and finally the purple. I would also save as many of the old brick as possible. You will need them to fill in the pockets and above and around the new lintel/beam. Removing the blue section first will give you a good idea how the wall was constructed. Hopefully there are plenty of wall ties, these will definitely help support the brick veneer wall.

   Once the brick are removed, set the new lintel/beam and re-brick. Start re-bricking from the lintel shelve up. Complete as many courses as possible before you reach the 2x6 supports. Once you get there remove one support and fill in the pocket with the brick then move to the next until all three are done. Good luck.

   

   
   
   View Image

   © 1999-2000

   "The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it."

   Aristotle