Went to look at a job for some built-ins today and the homeowner gave me a “while yer here”…. She showed me her kitchen sink, an undermount stainless steel mounted to what at first glance apeared to be a “Corian” counter top. Upon closer inspection I was able to see that the counter top was actually some type of laminate. The top veneer looked to be a full 1/8″ to 3/16″ thick solid surfacing. The front edge was a full 1/2″ thick. Had the installer not used an undermount sink I doubt one would have been able to tell it wasnt a solid surface top. However, the years of moisture working its way between exposed veneer and substrate are begining to wreak havoc. I`ve already made my recomendation to homeowner but Im just curious as to whether anyone here is familiar with product as Ive described?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
“DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE”
Replies
Sounds like a Wilsonart SSV Solid Surfacing Veneer - it's only 1/8" thick.
Ah...Ive heard of the product, but never worked with it. I suggested replacing the sink with a drop in that is slightly larger. Does this product cut similar to "formica"? Any special tools required? I`m planned on using my jig saw with a blade that cuts on the down stroke, sound good?
Thanks in advance!J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Dear Jaybird:
A couple of things that I learned from my supplier using Wilsonart SSV, if you have to seam it, you may be SOL, in that you may have to buy a special gun that mixes the two materials together (think like caulk guns side by side on steroids) in order to mix the materials in order to make a seam. My supplier was able to get me a packet (now discontinued) of seam filler (sort of like a cold pack, you break the insides and mix in the bag) so I did not have to buy the gun. I love tools as much as the next guy but the gun was over $100 and there are other things that I would rather have. Otherwise, once you seam it, you can sand it and it cut and machines beautifully with ordinary hand tools.
Cheers,
Jeff
Jaybird
Not that it helps you in this situation but the cabinet shop around here wont even use that countertop anymore because of your particular situation.
Doug
Was offered to me last year on a job where budget was imporant. I turned it down on behalf of the owner. I think it may have applications in some places but not there.
Excellence is its own reward!
Like Dennis said, definitely Wilsonart SSV. In my opinion, it should never be used for undermount sinks due to risk of water infiltration; should be okay for self-rimming sinks however.
I am considering using a laminate top with an undermount kitchen sink - a Kohler "Dickinson". Until I saw these posts. I never thought that the laminate couldn't be made watertight. It's funny these sinks don't include any instructions requiring a solid top. I guess everyone who works with laminates on a daily basis must just know that this won't work. Thanks for the helpful advice. h.
Also keep in mind...many times laminate tops are seemed at the sink cut out. Theory is once sink is in, only a small visible joint remains. Although seeming in the corner is a more obvious joint, there is much less chance of moisture lifting laminate. What looks good at time of installation may not be true over time. J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Definately Wilsonart SSV (Solid Surface Veneer). Was going to use this stuff on my own kit, then looked into it, Local shops stopped offering it, but good old HD still does. A friend of mine had delamination problems over his dishwasher with his SSV counter. Why any one would ever do an undermount sink is beyond me. Take the wettest most used, most contaminated area in the kit and put a 8-9' seam all the way around it. I don't get it.
Another point to consider. They measure for this stuff along the back splash and round up every dimension before adding it all up just like laminate counters, so you pay for the corners twice, and a whole lot of surface that you don't get. Around here SSV is about $48.00/ sq ft. Solid Gibraltar top by Wilsonart is about $66.00 /sq ft but you only pay for the actual finished sq ftg. In my kit (U shaped ) it was about $100.00 more than the SSV. Case closed!!!!
S
They try that scam on numerous installs. Not just SSV. Tried to do the same thing to my sister with the Gibraltar. It's wrong, they know it's wrong (and probably illegal), and they will back down if you fight them on it. Of course, since they make you pay in advance, you have to be willing to wait and probably fight for your money back. I don't know how hard that would have been. They backed down first and only charged her for actual sq footage. (After I called them on it) Had a friend of my father in law's complain to me about a similar practice on a ceramic tile job they did for him.
We used that SSV material for the elevator cab walls in my building a couple of years ago. The edges of the panels were done in full thickness material and profiled. The SSV cut the cost considerably and the finished product looked great.
SSV works great with applications such as yours. The problems arise when exposed to heat/moisture, or steam (as are most kitchen counters). Other than that, you can't tell the difference from 3" away, so it does save some money.