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First thing you can do is make those pictures smaller. (File size. Not necessarily screen size.)
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=94176.1
Well, there is no better time than the present for you to learn how to resize photos for posting here, or for emailing to others.
What photo software do you have? It more than likely already has the tools you need...
Photos that large will choke my connetion to death or take half an hour each to download
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
k here it is
Edited 11/24/2007 5:11 pm ET by andyfew322
the other two
You do learn fast.Now let's modify tht lesson for extra credit! Not busting what you've done but best size is about 100-200 KB at a good sccreen size. To get that, if you can do 72pixels per incch and about 720 wide...I can see these, but the detail is pretty small to digest.It doesn't look good but not an impossible tragedy either. Is it a customer's house or your family abode? It almost looks like there was tarpaper in there, but not sure, and of course if it were papered well, this rot would not exist.Is this one that had AL siding that was posted a week or so ago - or was tht somebody else?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
my house, tarpaper but like 3 layers, not posted before
If you already have the worst of the soft wood gone, then get some of the epoixies sold specificly for rot repair. Maybe clean up to some stright edges first with chisle so you can fit new wood in. Then inject the Git-Rot or Arbatron or System Three or whatever to the old wood and let cure up for a few days.The way you inject for something like this is to drill a series of 3/16" or 1/4" holes every half inch to inch apart, sloping down and not all the way through the wood. The product is sold with a mixing bottle and narrow tip. You use that tip to get the epoxy to flow into the hole, move to the next hole etc until you cannot get the holes to hold any more of the fluid epoxy. The kinds developed for wood rot repairs have low visosity, so it will follow the wood flowing from your holes out. When it cures, it will have stabilized and hardened the wood.From what I can see, it looks like there is just enough left to support the structure there if you save what is left this way.Sometimes it can be easier to just remove and patch in with new, but I think you would be better off this way.Then patch over with some new sheathing and cover with tarpaper.
I will assume that the problem was caused by water penetrating the joint between cornerboard and siding. You have the cornerboard off and gone. If the siding is OK, then slide a sawsall metal cutting blade behind the siding and cut the nails at the end all the way down. This way you can slide new 30# felt in behind there before new corner goes back on. Renail siding, replace corner board after prepainting it to get all surfaces.Caulk that joint and repaint all the area
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Oh yeah, the reason I asked if prior posting of this, a guy had similar that was behind AL siding and he was going to get back with more photos after tearing it apart. I couldn't remember if you or not.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Hello MainerAm at it again. Asking about exterior foamboard insulation but tried 2B more specific this time as have begun to have misgivings after "researching" so much. Since I am not in the trade, I must miss a lot as so many answers seem only half-explanations or vague, poss. assuming reader "gets it." I am very serious. My guys want to work whenever poss. over winter and buttoning up the little cape is first priority, so they will be getting at the rear of Cape b4 long.If we will encounter even minor problems using foamboard on exterior in area where the sun don't shine all that much, I need to know. My fellows are tops and eager to do best job possible (I am verrrryy Lucky gal) and would not knowingly error, I assure you.And tho my financial situ is not so hot, I refuse to cut corners or do anything to jeopardize my little place.So, friend, can you check out my new post under energy, heat and insulation (whatever) and take a look see. Also, see latest pix of place. Thanks, as ever
Do you know why the wood was rotting? Obviously from water getting in there, but can you wage a guess as to how the water was getting in? Probably between the joint between the corner boards and the siding??
How soft if the wood and how much of it is soft. If you would scrape off all of the soft stuff, how much meat would you have left? What Im getting at is whether you can just repair what you have or are you going to have to replace some wood?
The trim was really rotten and we didn't do anything because the corner is hard to access all soft wood is scraped away
Edited 11/24/2007 7:33 pm ET by andyfew322
Andy, Piffin has it pegged.The only thing I would do different is that I would take the entire corner trim off, all the way up.Do your repairs, as he suggests.Then when it comes to cutting those siding nails, do as he says, but go farther back, so you can really pry those pieces of siding out away from the wall.Then, starting at the bottom...Cut some Grace Ice and Water sheild in about 1 foot lengths.Pry the siding back far enough to give you plenty of clearance, and place the I&W on the corner. Lapping over, under the siding. Go as far out to the sides as you can.Move up, pry the siding back again, place some more, so that it overlaps the bottom piece. Move up again, do it again so it overlaps the last piece. Etc. Until you have the entire corner, top to bottom covered with the I&W.I suggested one foot pieces because it would be easier to work with that way. If you think you can use one solid piece top to bottom, go for it.Now put tar paper over everything, and replace the siding, and corner trim as normal.
Everybody is born a hero.
I missed - thought the corner board was already all off.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
You didn't miss it.I included that as a 'just in case'. Just in case the corner boards haven't been removed all the way up to the roof. Didn't want to miss a step.=0)
Everybody is born a hero.
how far up should i take the corner board off
I'd go to the top, unless it is woven in under fancier trim at the freize. If you have to part it someplace halfway upp, make the cut beveled so that the upper one you leave angles down at the outside face. That way any water hitting it sheds to the outside instead of scooping it in.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Looks like pretty standard albiet intensive repair. Track down the leak, fix it. If wood is punky all the way through seems like you'd have to shore up structure and rip out sill plate and rim joist and replace as far back as rot goes.
I'd get in there with chisel, scraper, brush, whatever and get any soft wood out and see what's left - pressure washer would work -
lots of redundency in that sized material - I'd be thinking in terms of chiseling it down to sound wood and then scabbing on some treated wood -
but the original water problem needs to be addressed - how's it getting to this area and how are you gonna keep it out in the future -
Every body's forgotten the most important queation-
How much ya charging for this job? LOL