Replies

1. 
   IMERC | Aug 23, 2005 07:20pm | #1

   the voltage is fine.. get better bulbs...

   use 130 volt bulbs...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   cap | Aug 23, 2005 08:26pm | #2

   kentsboss,

   The voltage may be on the high side of normal, although more info would be helpful.  What were the individual values, when (time of day, day of week) did you make the measurements, and what kind (make and model) of voltmeter did you use? 

   I ask because voltage at an outlet can vary depending on the loads on the supply, both in the house and in the neighborhood.  For instance, voltage may be lower in the summer in the early evening, if there are a lot of air conditioners running in the neighborhood.  There may be a minicipal water or sewage pumping station nearby, and when the pumps are running, volatge may drop a little.  The utility may have set the secondary distribution voltage on the high side of normal to account for this.  So you may see 125-130 volts a lot of the time.

   About the meter--some cheap voltmeters aren't calibrated accurately; if the meter is biased high by 5 percent, a 127 volt measurement may really be 121V, essentially the same as the nominal grid voltage in N. America (120V).  I'm not saying that an inexpensive meter isn't useful; absolute accuracy often isn't critical, because the meter is being used to make relative measurements (point "A" in the house, compared to point "B").

   If the voltage measurements are between 120 and 130 volts, that's within what's considered acceptable by most power companies.  If you're close to a utility transformer that also serves houses some distance away, the power company may have set the voltage on the secondary distribution lines at the high side of normal so that it's within acceptable range at the far end of the secondary lines.  There is a solution if this is the case--light bulbs designed for higher voltage.

   Or, the problem could be with the house wiring.  

   One possibility would affect about half of the branch circuits.  If the neutral in the service drop is compromised (e.g., a poor connection in a splice between the drop wire and the service entrance conductor [the power company resposiblity, usually], or a poor connection at the terminal where the service entrance conductor connects to the meter or panel neutral lug [your responsiblity]), then under certain circumstances, the circuits connected to one pole of the service will see higher than normal voltage.

   Another possibility is a bad neutral connection in a multiwire branch circuit, where two supply conductors share a neutral.  This would only affect the multiwire circuits.

   One other thought is that you're getting cheap lightbulbs.  Some of the hardware store or homecenter generic lamps have a stated life of 750 hours.  That's the average lifespan, so some of the lamps will burn out a lot sooner than that, even in the best of conditions.  If there's a little vibration (like with a ceiling fixture with a floor above it), or a fixture with a bad socket, or an enclosed fixture with lamps of too high a wattage (these two things can create a lot of heat), the lamp will burn out even quicker.

   I'd suggest having a good, old work electrician look into the possiblity of a loose neutral (either at the service or in a branch circuit or circuits).  This testing is most easily done at the electrical panel, so it's beyond the comfort zone of most homeowners (and rightfully so).  It also requires familiarity with multiwire circuits and some troubleshooting skills to interpret the results.

   Now, you could call your power company and say the words "loose neutral" and see if they'll come out and measure at the meter.  But these days, most PoCos will come out and check supply voltage only after you've had an electrician rule out a problem in the house wiring.  If there are any other signs of above normal voltage--appliances burning out or failing often, then get an electrician out right away.

   If the supply voltage is high/normal, you might try something simple--long-life lamps.  I'm talking about 130V-rated incandescent bulbs that have an average life of 5,000 (or 10,000, or even 20,000) hours.  These lamps have beefier filaments, more filament supports, and brass bases.  Really nice--no more cheap, aluminum-base lamp getting stuck in the fixture socket.  Cost--about $2 a bulb.  Made in America--how about that!

   They're a little more expensive initially than a 750 hour lamp, but actually in the long run, are cheaper to use (even if you don't consider the "cost" of changing the bulb).  There are a couple of companies that sell long-life lamps via the internet.  Try searching "long life lightbulbs" or similar.

   Good luck.

   Cliff

1. 
   kentsboss | Aug 24, 2005 12:56am | #5

   Excellent, excellent help. The voltmeter is a good, newish Craftsman that I have every reason to believe is at least of average or better quality. I believe the reading, pretty much.

   However, there is a transformer one house away that I am the second user on the line, so that is a real possibility.

   Other external variables you mention are unlikely because I've measured at different times of the day, including today when the outside termperature was a pleasant 65 so I doubt many cooling units were on.

   I am having a new line put in for a laundry room soon, so I'll have my electrician check the panel as you suggested. And I' ve found a place on line that sells a wide variety of 130 volt, long-life bulbs, so that order is already out. Thanks a lot for the help.

   Kentsboss

    

    

1. 
   4Lorn1 | Aug 24, 2005 02:21am | #7

   A lot of times such problems can be tracked down to something as simple as cheap or worn fixtures. Even high quality sockets will wear out and a single inept user can drastically lower the life expectantcy of the fixtures. Bulb that are over tightened can cause the tab in the center of the socket to be crushed and lose its springiness. Once it loses its spring it doesn't make a good contact. Which generates heat. Which both further degrades the tab and can drastically lower the longevity of the bulbs. I see the result of such abuse a lot in older fixtures. Sometimes caused by men who feel the need to prove their manhood with a light bulb. Probably made worse because of the 'more is better' ethos rampant in this society.Of course overtightening is only the most common cause of the problem. Under tightening can do about as much damage. Both to the ceter tab, because of heat buildup that destroys the resiliency of the metal, and the bulbs. On cheaper fixtures the shell, the outer threded portion of the socket, is often made of aluminum. IMHO a poor choice of metal because the bases of most bulbs is also aluminum. An aluminum on aluminum fitting, particularly in softer alloys, will tend to bind and gall. Lubricating the base of bulbs helps a lot but once a socket starts binding it is often only a downward path.A socket that binds with the bulb can make getting the bulb properly tightened almost impossible. Hard to tell when the bulb is properly seated.A strong flashlight and hand mirror can often be employed to look closely at the socket. Look for a darkened or blackened center tab. Oftenthe tip will look pitted or melted. Also look at the shell. A damaged shell will often have distrorted threads. An uneven color with areas that look burnished or smeared. Sometimes pitted. With the power off, double check and make sure the polarity is not reversed, which would make the shell live even with the switch off, it can be instructive to feel the center tab. The contact point may feel rough. Feel the tab as you press it down. It should flex down slightly and spring back. In expensive fixtures or ones with sentimental value can often have their socket/s replaced. Most electrical supply houses, hardware stores and lighting shops carry a variety of replacement sockets. Try to buy a high quality replacement to avoid the situation repeating.Speaking of repeating I think this question: 'Light bulbs burn out too often what is wrong?'Should be put in any FAQ file. It comes up pretty often and, for the most part the answers have become fairly standard. IMHO it seems very little new ground is being covered. I must have posted some version of what I post here two or three times previously.

1. 
   junkhound | Aug 24, 2005 06:01am | #8

   Good points; One more common item to add to 4Lorn's list here (mentioned in some of his previous posts but not anywhere in this thread) is if it specific locations rather than ALL locations, it can be as simple as a nearby door slamming shut too often or a bouncy floor above the fixture.

   EDIT ps:  I use fluorescent screw-ins in every one of my trouble lights, even rough service bulbs and 140 V rated bulbs go too often at the slightest drop or jostle of the troublelight.

   Edited 8/23/2005 11:05 pm ET by junkhound

3. 
   JohnSprung | Aug 23, 2005 09:26pm | #3

   The standard our DWP uses is that they deliver the nominal voltage +/- 5% as measured at the service entrance.  So, anything from 114 to 126 is OK. 

   Cap's right about meter precision and resistance in the neutrals.

   For really long life incandescents, look for traffic signal bulbs.  They come in strange wattages, like 67, 69, and 113.  We have some that I put in my parents' house in 1972, still working.  I got them from a GE distributor.

    

    

   -- J.S.

    

4. 
   junkhound | Aug 23, 2005 10:41pm | #4

   how do I solve it

    

   Use fluorescent bulbs.

5. 
   WorkshopJon | Aug 24, 2005 02:02am | #6

   Kent,

   The voltage at my panel is 126V/252V (my house taps right off the transformer on a long rural run 'bout a mile from the town substation) and I've never had a problem.  Like IMERC said....probably cheaper (made in china???) bulbs are your problem.

   WSJ