I need a bit of advice, and I know that this is the best place to get it.
A client has a 1920’s bungalo, with a shed dormer. The dormer has eaves that are about 3 feet wide, and all of the framing and decking are exposed from below. The fly rafter (2X6) is supported by corbel brackets that were custom made — looks like maybe 3X3’s which form a triangle. The decking looks like 1X4 T&G. The fly rafter is about one foot in from the ends of the decking.
The fly rafter is visibly rotted. One of the corbels also looks like it might be going bad. I agreed to replace the fly rafter on a T&M contract, and the client knows that I might need to replace a lot more than just the one piece.
I’ve replaced plenty of rotted wood, but never a fly rafter. Should I plan to use a temporary support? And if I find that the decking is also soft, is there any remedy that does not involve roof tear-off?
Thank you in advance,
Dave Thompson — The Yes Ma’am Handyman
Replies
I've only been involved once in replacing a fly rafter (what we'd call a barge rafter out in Seattle, if I understand you correctly). We also replaced the bracket, which it sounds like you'll be doing, too.
Since the rafter doesn't support anything but the cantilevered roof, we didn't shore it up while removing it. However, we did lever the new rafter up to straighten the roof line a little bit. Then, with the new rafter still levered up, we installed the new bracket. We used a number of 3" exterior screws to secure the bracket to the wall sheathing. The home owner also put in a couple of hex head lag screws, but I think this was overkill, given that the original construction relied on 16d casing nails alone.
You can replace individual pieces of T&G beadboard as needed, but it's sometimes hard to find new stock in the exact same width and thickness. As an alternative, I know that there are beaded plywood products available. If it works in your specific situation, you could possibly apply the panels directly over the existing beadboard. Just a thought, anyway.
Good luck on your project!
Ragnar
I'm doing the exact same project myself , built in the 1920s has a shed dormer with the outer fly rafter sagging and dry rott, also has Corbels 3x5 that has sagging issues , I've done several of these restoration projects, and as I can tell you first hand the best way to remove the fly rafter is to use your circular saw and cut horizontal from top to bottom on facia down towards soffit area , just be in the center of board to avoid nails , you will have to stop over your Corbels just Sawzall this out , this will leave you like a 1x2 piece attached to the old decking but will be easier to remove and do alot less harm to the old 1x3 t&g , and then clean the exposed nails using your multi tool to cut them flush , but you don't need to support the Rafter as there isn't much live load there , Corbels can be raised back up as close to level and the use a 4" beam screws on each side to secure back in place or if rotted corbel will have to be cut off flush to wall ,then chisel out and back approx 1.5 inches in wall and then reinstall your newly built corbel .. these are tedious dirty jobs and Lead is always a problem so please use a respirator and be aware of your kids when getting home as lead will transfer itself to them as well ,wash all your clothing seperate from families and i say this as it happened to me and my granddaughter went to doctor and had a lead rating of 16% which is bad for a child 40% and your dead .. so please be aware of the health issues .. but I love doing them and they are satisfying to see something old brought back to life and not covered over with vinyl siding or metal.. good luck and I hope this helped