Replies

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 01, 2003 03:14am | #1

   Why?  What's the goal?

   Do it right, or do it twice.

1. 
   reidboys | Jul 01, 2003 03:43am | #2

   The goal is to get a good surface for painting. The present block wall is 55yrs. old, and very uneven,with the mortar joints protruding.

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 01, 2003 04:31am | #3

   Treated plywood would not be a particularly appealing painted surface.  How much work do you want to do?  Fasten metal hat channels to the block on a 24" grid, screw dens-shield to it, then apply a plaster or stucco finish.  Or screw the hat channels (or wooden furring strips) vertically on 16-24 inch centers and then apply hardieplank siding.

   Where are you?  What is the building: garage, house, hunting cabin...?  Welcome to BT.

   Do it right, or do it twice.

1. 
   reidboys | Jul 01, 2003 05:05am | #5

   Thanks for your reply. I have previously well-primed treated ply and several coats of top qlty. acrylic, with good results.

   The bldg. is old horse stable, now my woodworking shop. Just added central air,as the S.C. summers are humid.

   Wife said, if you are so good to deserve AC, you could at least make ext. look better.

   4 sons at The Citadel. 2 grads, Sr. and Soph. 1 more to go (Sr.in highsch)

   I thought I could handle the plywood(but admit a real task) Stucco not on my resume.

   Any more thoughts?

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 01, 2003 06:40am | #8

   5 boys...probably should have watched more tv and done fewer night patrols.  Are you a Cid grad also?  or just the boys?  Whereabouts in the low country are you?

   Do it right, or do it twice.

2. 
   4Lorn2 | Jul 03, 2003 08:38am | #9

   A parge coat of rough plaster or add a few more layers, I think three is traditional, to include a finish plaster finish. Brushed, splattered, harled or dead flat and smooth a good plaster man could do a 8' by 20' wall in just part of a day. I watched a good one do a dead smooth job in about six hours including clean up, acid etching and patching a few small holes and a crack.  Amazing how fast this guy worked. I just tried to stay out of the way afraid that if I got too close I would be plastered in.

   I would think preparation, brushing and/or etching and any repairs that might be called for, would complete the balance of the job. Still I think a good plaster man and a helper could give you a professional job at a reasonable price. IMHO this would look better, last longer, be more maintenance free longer than the plywood option. Particularly if there is any moisture present.

3. 
   FastEddie1 | Jul 03, 2003 03:46pm | #10

   I agree.  However, you're preaching to the wrong choir...not my project :)

   Do it right, or do it twice.

2. 
   MarkH128 | Jul 01, 2003 04:57am | #4

   Maybe sandblast it and put a parge coat of cement plaster on instead. I dont think the plywood would be much better than what you have.

   Another thing is a texture paint.

   I put something on a block wall years ago that was oil based and had grit of some sort in it. The fumes made me very ill, plus I kept getting the paint on my hands and so I had blisters from the grit rubbing against the roller handle. I think I used 10 gallons to cover what 2 gallons of regular paint would do. Looked real nice for a long time.

1. 
   reidboys | Jul 01, 2003 05:28am | #6

   Thanks for your reply. How sandblast? Cement plaster =type S mortar mix?

1. 
   MarkH128 | Jul 01, 2003 06:37am | #7

   I'm not a mason, so I wont try to suggest the type of mortar mix. I think you could find out what to use, but yes type S probably would work. There are synthetics too. You would need a big sandblaster to remove the old paint, probably a rental gasoline powered unit.

2. 
   mike4244 | Jul 03, 2003 06:14pm | #11

   Preston, give any thought to vinyl siding?I am not a proponent of this stuff but in your case it may be a good choice.Strip out the block 16" oc. Add horizontal strip at starter height.Inexspensive , no painting,easy to apply.

   Mike