Does anyone have any info as to what the building code (ibc or ubc) is for residential sheet rock nailing/ screwing? I am building a house in a city that I have not built in before. Below are the inspectors comments on the correction notice. The sheetrock inspection failed due to
1. Too many fasteners too close to butt joints- min 3/8″ by code
2. green board cannot be used as a tile backer
3. Ceilings- GWB reqrd to be perpendicular to rafters/ joists unless framing is 16″ oc
4. edge nailing to be 7″ oc.
When we had the insulation inspection it wasnt the usuall inspector that came out. I asked what they wanted to see on the sheetrock insp because they are very picky here and was hoping to be able to get it right the first time. He told me that there should be 12 screws at the seams and 6 in the field. So I told this to my drywall contractor. Now that the regular inspector is doing the inspection there are too many screws???? I am going to talk to him Monday AM but my experiences with this group has not been good in the past. Its either their way or the highway if you know what I mean.
Item 3 The truss system is a vaulted full hip system. There is a girder truss that runs parallel about 8 feet from the exterior wall. Jack trusses connect to the girder truss and run the 8 feet to the exterior wall. The drywall runs perpendicular to the girder truss and the rest of the trusses from that point on. The seams then run parallel to the jack trusses for the 8 feet from the girder to the wall. Is it code that the rock should be turned at the girder? Seems to me that the way it is done now would be a better way to hold every thing together. The sheet rock on the ceiling is CD board made specially for ceilings. Any insite on this would be appreciated.
Replies
I do not have YOUR local codes, but I do have comments...
Some of that seems excessive and unrealistic or maybe the interpretation is wrong...
1> sounds like maybe your installer had his fastenres too close to the the edge. but as far as numnbers oes, 12 in the edge means every 4"O yet the failure notes mention should be within 7" ???? I don't think he is saying there are too many screws necessarily, but that the screws you have, are too close to the edge???
2> Green board CAN be used as tile backer,but not in a wet location, like a shower.
For the rest of the bathrooom or a kitcchen backsplash it is fine. For the shower, use cement backer board
3> 1/2" SR must be 16" OC framing on cielings as a general rule while 5/8" can normally be used at 24" OC. Not familiar with your CD board and your inspector might not be either, so you might have to show themn the manufaturers documentation
If you can name the locality and the code used and enforced by the AHJ there, you can have beetter feedback here.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Rusty,
Sounds like you got a bit of bad luck -- I've never had an inspecter want to count fasteners in rock before! (Although I have had them count fasteners on shear walls before.)
I agree with Piffin that items #1 & #4 must be interpreted as keeping the fasteners a minimum distance from the edge (probably to avoid cracking the rock and losing hold strength).
Same with item #2 -- use green board as a tile backer ONLY if not a wet location -- no green board on shower walls, for example.
With item #3, I understand your description -- you've got a change in ceiling joist direction in the room. I guess the city wants to see a change in the direction of your rock sheets to fit the framing.
I can see two alternative "soltutions" to the change in rock direction: (1) add additional ceiling joists parallel to the jack trusses so that you don't exceed 16" oc spacing; (2) add blocking @ 24" oc perpendicular to the jack trusses -- that way, you'd have 24" oc in both directions, so the city can't complain.
Whether these "solutions" are cost effective or advisable based on performance of the sheetrock are questions I can't answer (I don't know if the additional joists or blocking would have any sort of negative impact on truss uplift, etc.).
Edited 8/12/2007 11:58 pm ET by Ragnar17
I don't understand why your concerned here. You paid to have a proper job done and it wasn't, so let your drywall person know and have them take care of it. If installation doesn't pass, no check for failed work, end of story or is there more that you haven't laid out yet? If you hired a professional drywall contractor then he/she is more than capable of installing rock to pass code requirements, that's their profession.