hi all..
this summer i plan on finsihing the fence i began last fall.
(the finished fence will be similar to the picture below)
By finishing i mean hanging the actual “fencing”, the 6×6 posts are already in place on rougly 65″ centers.
so i have a few questions:
1. how would you guys recomend fastening the fencing to the posts? the top cap is a 2×4, with a 1×4 vertical picket sandwiched between two 1×4’s on the horizontal below that.
2. would you fasten the top cap first (toenailing underneath to conceal the nails, or any other method recomended), or attach it last, after the “sandwiched” pickets and rails are in place?
3. im thinking a 1 1/4″ staple top and bottom would be enough to hold the vertical picket in place, but im not sure what the best way would be to fasten the 1×4 rails to the posts.
nail sizes, placement, simpson products, etc… would be appreciated.
thanks much
oak
Replies
Three inch screws, in pocket holes cut on the underside of each 2X.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
You could attach a 1x1x4 block where the 1x4s meet. Toe nailing(screwing) 1x does not have much lateral strength if someone or something wails into it, eg. lawnmower.
Best?
in the spacing between horizontal rails, there is a void in the photo. I would mortise into the post right there with a piece the same thickness as the vertical slats. it would protrude about an inch and a half or two. from the mortise.
In other words, it would be much like a biscuit in cabinetry. Glue and screws to fasten. The top one would be placed so it is exactly under the top plate and so would hold loads if anyone sat upon it.
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thanks for the input guys..
the mortise/tennon way of doing things sounds best and strongest... i can make a simple template for the router and buzz the mortises out and clean them up with the two cherries i got for christmas, but man... 20 posts, 4 mortises on each post... i guess you can consider that good practice..
piffin...
-how deep of a mortise would you go? 1 1/2" - 2"?
-would you glue the tennon piece into the post, or dry fit it and allow for expansion/contraction? im on the san francisco peninsula so there isn't any freezing weather around here, but it gets to the century mark a handful of days during the summer
as for the pocket hole idea.. definetly better than the toe nail, and buying the kreg jig doesn't sound bad..
but... i think i would get the most satisfaction knowing i took the time to mortise it out, and attach everything with piffin screws..
thanks again.. i will post some pictures when im done... could be a while from now, but i will..
Fitted snug and entered with glue, I think an inch into the post would be plenty, but have it stand out a good 1-1/2" or two, like mickey mouse ears.
The glue would help seal the mortise to keep rain out and extend life of the post
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You're talking about dado cut up the length of the post on each side to equal the length of the slats? Hope he's got a hefty router...
I know the way you describe would be the strongest of all possible solutions but what about drilling holes through the sides of the 1/2 wide slat then plug the holes after glue/screwing them to the posts? Counterbore the holes to 1 1/4" from the edge meeting the post and use 3" screws, 3 per slat. Do you think it could be done in this manner and be strong enough for the life of the fence? Curious about your thoughts...
No, I wasn't talking about it running the whole lenghth of the slat. I was talking about where the horizontal fence rails meet the post. So, if the rails arre 1x4, the tenons would be about 3" tall.
But yours would be good too. and easier
The most important thing with any of these methods is that it will not only hold the rail section up, it will have to do some resisting movement of the post. It needs to be well set to reduce the amt of heaving and twisting or swaying in the wind that it does, becaue these joints will take it on the chin
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Second most important priority had better be keeping the water out of the Mortise. I just got to spend a little time replacing 4 x 12 stair treads and beams that had mortise joints full of wet crumbly not so sound wood. Not sure which would be better, polyurethane, or two part epoxy, but some good water proof glue is in order!! Souns like a nice fence when done
Dan