Fiberglass or Paper Joint Tape?

Normally when I have done taping, it has been on remodels, sheetrock against plaster, etc. and I have used fiberglass tape for the flexibility over disparate surfaces. Now, however I am taping an entire new room, and am wondering which technique is better, fiberglass all over or traditional paper tape. Thoughts?
Thanks!
Replies
If you're used to taping fibreglass, have at it. You already know to use Durabond to set the tape, all you need to perfect it is using your knife to pack the corners for a crisp line. I find fibreglass corners harder to finish, but it can be done.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Had a drywall products guy tell me once that the least expensive option, standard paper tape, was also superior in strength. But that is just hearsay.
If you haven't drawn blood today, you haven't done anything.
I like paper for inside corners and butts, fiberglass for tapered joints.
Ditto JimB. I find fiberglass hard to cover and the scrim lines just seem to magically appear,
With tapers it isn't a problem cause the scrim is so deep--Butt joints are the hardest for me and I use paper cause if I see it when I sand I can walk away and I am OK, with the scrim if you sand to it your in for another skim coat.
I am not good enough to keep the paper straight on horiz. lines like at ceilings so I use the metal with paper for these and reg paper for vert. inside joint.
I know I can hear Cal cringing but my name in Mitremike not Drywallmike--LOL
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Paper on corners and butts---mesh on tapered. But if your going to use that much paper.....it'd probly be easier to just use it everywhere. Some guys use fiberglass on corners too.....but its hard to finish. It almost requires an inside coner knife to finish (i hate those things) and then, you gotta use more mud and its more likely to crack. I just stick with the paper and bed the corners in with a 6 inch knife. Can't go wrong!
For starters if I had a banjo this wouldn't be an issue but I only tape 8or 10 times a year. So I roll out the paper on a dry joint and leave it coiled up at one end.After I bed the joint with 90 min I take the coil dunk in in a bucket to wet but not soke it and lay it up in the vert. corner--I use the metal with paper on the ceiling cause I can't keep the wetted paper under control. This is where the scrim comes into play--work on long horiz. I can keep in under control and for me faster than bedding paper--I have found that dampening the paper keeps the dry bubbles to almost nill.I have no problem taping inside vert. corners straight with paper but those long horz. ones on ceiling can drive me nuts. I make no claims to have any great insight on taping ---just ideas that work for a sometimes taper who would rather trim but taping pays the bills just the same and if I get a closet overhaul job that is say 10 sheets I can move right along with the job without hassalling my taper over what he would call a breaktime job.Wow--South America--Nice--My brother who lives in Aus. is dating a girl he met in there who is from Peru. I don't know where exactly but he will be home for Christmas and I'll have to ask her.Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Hmm.....never tried soaking the tape.....maybe i'll have to try that (when i go back to the states--everything here is cement plaster)
I loath those long ceiling inside corners too! Sometimes i wll finish them with a couple pieces of tape just to make it more managable. I love outsides though-
Don't do it for a living, but it pays the bills
Yeah-try giving it a quick dunk--wipe off the excess between your fingers down the lenght of the tape and see if that works for you too. Note: I am not a taper--tape when I need to or cause I have to so others have more experience than I ---so file this one in the for whats it worth file.I guess one other thing--I never use Plus 3 for bedding--I think some of my dry bubbles where from not useing setting type.Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I see more hairline cracks with FB. Theres just is not enough mud forced between 2 board's joint to stabilize it. That's why there should be a little gap, so mud can be pushed deeper into the joint.