Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 14, 2000 09:36am | #1

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   Could you use a striking tool like we use to strike lines in sidewalks?

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   Guest_ | Feb 15, 2000 05:46pm | #2

   *You can use a striking tool but then you can't use a power trowel and get that really slick finish we are hoping for. IF you power trowel then you have to cut the grooves and you can't get next to the walls and they often chip a lot.

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   Guest_ | Feb 17, 2000 02:32am | #3

   *You're going to put enough bar in the floor to ensure you don't compromise the RH pipe yes? I'm no concrete expert, so take my comments for what they're worth.My experience with RH in the slabs in my home and garage is that hairline shrinkage cracks are unavoidable and won't be prevented by control joints. Unless you have a really large area (like wharehouse size), control joints will only provide a clean breakage line in the event that your floor flexes (heaves). If you've done your base right, and put enough bar in the slab, flexing shouldn't be a problem. Confirm this with someone better qualified than myself.Now if it's appearance you're after, why not use a zinc (or some other material) inlay and have the floor surface polished off with a terazzo (spelling) grinder? A power trowel alone will give you a nice finish, but they have there limits too (corners in particular). While it may look like a super finish in a garage or basement environment, you may not find it lives up to your expectations in a finished floor setting.A good diamond saw concrete cutter should give you the clean cut lines you're looking for. I've never known them to be prone to chipping unless there's a problem with the concrete. You can rent a big floor model for nice straight lines on the bulk of the floor, and a smaller hand held for trimming up the wall edge. You should at least be able to get the cut far enough to be covered by baseboards or whatever. Or you could start start the pattern with a boarder cut say a foot from the wall (don't groove the perimeter).

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   Guest_ | Feb 17, 2000 05:10pm | #4

   *thanks for the tips Steve, I have been talking with some finishers and feel like we are getting close to the same page with one. Are those saw's generally rentable as well as the grinder? We didn't want the zinc joints and are hoping the grooves will work out. The concrete is going on a TJI framed floor system sized for the weight. Probably nedds wire mesh and more frequent joints. Thinking of 6x6 foot.

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   Guest_ | Feb 22, 2000 02:56am | #5

   *Everything's rentable (including many things you'd just as soon not have to use twice). Get the boys at the rent it center to show you how the tools work and you can decide for yourself if the cut is acceptable or within your skills.You're not worried about the edges of the grooves chipping and cracking with wear and tear? (sliding couch, chair legs, dropped vacum cleaner nozzles, etc)

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   Guest_ | Feb 22, 2000 05:30pm | #6

   *Boone, I hand cut joints and follow up with a power trowel finish all the time. It is definitly more work,but satisfying to see straight, uniform, radiused joints. It requires a talent that is disappearing. Saw cut joints ALWAYS have some chipping. (they are cheaper to install)I highly recommend rebar. You will be able to tie off the tubing more solidly, keeping the depth below top of slab more consistent. Cutting a slab for control joints requires a penetration of 1/4 total thickness. Kind of risky with tubing. Good luck, Rick