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How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersHighlights
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I prime first and paint it with an oiled based paint.
Priming it gives it a nice smooth finish.
Rainie
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I've had poor luck in the past using MDF trim. Seemed like a great idea, mills nicely, inexpensive - but when nailing with air, the material displaced by the nail caused a "bump" that I didn't notice until it was painted. Looked like hell under gloss. Maybe I just missed a step, but I'm real leary of it now. - yb
*Fusco had a post on this. He predrills his to avoid this which I guess means you can't shoot it. The material appeals to me also, but I would hate to go back to installing it by hand.Dennis
*We just sand it before painting. Caulk, Prime and Paint. I love the stuff for painted applications. It is super cheap, very forgiving, and with caulk, I can even make my work look good!There is no way that I would pre-drill and nail by hand when I could shoot it.
*I also like it for paint grade stuff, often in comb. with some wood. I can't say I ever had a problem with "bumps".
*the only place for mdf is the garbage I hate the stuff it is cheap dose not hold up well and looks like sh*t. Sorry just venting about a lousy material
*What are you shooting it with? Dennis
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stubby, you must be using it in the wrong place or time; the only part you got right was its cost
*Young Bob; I had a similar experience with bulging nailheads, I've taken a bosch random orbit sander and sand them flush after I've taken a sharp chisel and actually cut the excess. The new light weight MDF supposedly doesn't do this. But I can't find anyone who carries it. As a matter of fact I can;t find anyone in this town who ever heard of MDF.I have to special order it in from Weyerhauser.Anyway I love it.We would prime it with laquer undercoater and finish with Hi gloss industrial enamel.
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There is a huge difference between MDF made from softwoods and hardwoods. I will never again willingly buy a sheet made from hardwood (you can tell, cause it's darker than the usual straw colour, and seems to be about three times heavier). It is really difficult for one guy to move it around, and it fights you all the way, from cutting to nailing or screwing. I showed a piece to the sales rep from my distributor, they won't carry it because people are so against it ( after using it). can't say enough good things about the other stuff. Coating the raw board with a top quality laquer finish is a very hip new look you'll see more of for furnishings.
*I use it for mouldings and trim. I prime with Kilz, then spray gloss latex to finish. The bumps do present a problem. To eliminate these, I do what Don said: use a sharp chisel, just sanding won't do it. Sanding just pushes the material back into the hole to reappear at a later date.
*MDF trim can be a bear to paint if not prepared well. When nailing base or crown, try to put the fastener in a curved area of the trim as opposed to a flat surface, so the blemish caused by the nailer will not be as noticable. Oversand and fill the "poof" marks, you can make them disappear. Put some coloring in your wood filler so the holes don't blend in so easily. I learned these tricks from our painter who makes MDF window sills look like glass.
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