I used my reciprocating saw to cut out a large opening out of the small room that overlooks our great room. We are trying to give it a bit of a loft look. The opening will just be finished off with drywall for now.
Should I cap off the cut studs at the top and bottom of the opening with a 2×4 or can I get by with something less?
Right now the cutout is rough, I need to decide how to finish it and then pick my final heights. Any tips for making the last cut a bit more accurate? I’m thinking of nailing some horizontal 2×4’s on both sides of the wall and keeping my blade running on top of that.
Thanks for any input.
Replies
No header? Bearing wall? Accuracy of final cut is not as critical as accuracy of framing, and corner-bead placement for finishing to. That will dictate the opening in a drywalled pass-thru. How about a picture or drawing?
It is not a load bearing wall. No header.The wall is 9.5'x8', 2x4 construction.The rough opening is currently 79.5" x 44.5" and starts about 35" above the floor.
Okay, I think the picture attached this time.Where you see the Dewalt saw is what used to be our hallway closet. I was going to replace that to match our bannister, but now the wife has decided she might want a whole new stairwell.So, for now, that will have to function as a knee wall until she decides what she wants.Any tips?
Is the opening you cut, the size you want?
I wouldn't worry about cleaning up the cut. I'd rip down a piece of 1x6 to cap the cut off studs, then drywall on top of the 1x. Next, corner bead, using a level to plumb, level, and straighten the bead. Mud to taste.
I'm starting to think the opening is "close enough" given how much of a pain this has been. In a perfect world the finished heights would match our doorway and bannister respectively.I was not as careful with the closet, thinking that we would just be matching the bannister on our stairwell. There is one corner that is about 1/4" lower than everywhere else.Should I just shim up that ripped 1x6?I have not picked up the corner bead yet. Will it reach over 1/2" thick drywall plus the 3/4" thick lumber?
Should I just shim up that ripped 1x6?
Probably, If the cut is that rough. Use shims, and don't forget the construction adhesive.
I have not picked up the corner bead yet. Will it reach over 1/2" thick drywall plus the 3/4" thick lumber?
Most corner bead is 1 1/4". So barely, normally I tape the joint anyways. Just mud the cornerbead like you normally would, press some paper tape in where seam is between the bead and the old drywall.
Don't forget to Weldbond the old painted walls in areas where you are mudding over. Weldbond is available at HD or Lowes paint department. It's basically glue that you can mix with water, so the mud adheres well to old painted walls.
why not put some blocking in between the studs (cut to fit snug, and attach with drywall screws through the drywall), and trim it out with some jamb stock and casing. That way you can fine-tune the opening with the jamb, and hold it in place with the casing.
Huck, I am for your trim out but not sure you need the blocking between the studs.
Probably not, but he did say finishing & "sturdying up" a wall cutout...it couldn't hurt!
Metal track slipped over the ends of each stud will serve the same function as blocking. He can then wrap the whole thing with drywall and use corner bead, or flush/fluted jambs and casing as he chooses.
Dave
I like the blocking because it facilitates finish nailing on the trim.
Blind nail the jamb 1x at 45* angle ( like a toenail) through the stud ends or sides . Case work hides the blind nails or screws. No nail holes to fill in the flush or flutted jamb.
Dave
Dave