I need help with an exterior door that I want to fix. It is a door connecting a detached garage to a back yard, without any overhang or other protection from the weather, so it gets wet when we get the occasional rain here in Southern California. It is 4 years old, and had to be special-ordered because the opening is not a standard-door size, and I wanted it to have a clear glass fixed window within the door. Against my better judgment I followed the advice of a lumberyard manager who suggested using a flush exterior grade hardboard, solid core, with type I glue door, made by T.M.Cobb Co. Before installing it, I had to trim one of the edges for proper fitting, before giving it a coat of primer and two coats of enamel paint. After the second rainy season, I started noticing that the paint began to get blisters around the window and edges and it has now deteriorated to the point that the hardboard has separated from the stiles and it is irreparably warped and cracked.
My question is, can I replace the hardboard facing, which is only 1/8-inch thick, with exterior grade plywood, and what would be the specifications for a durable type of plywood, glue and paint. Or are there any other suggestions other than buying a new one?
I would greatly appreciate any responses.
Replies
I too had a poor experience with "exterior" hardboard. One door was 7'x9'! My solution was to replace the hardboard with new hardboard and sheathe with copper. The edges of the hardboard didn't take weather well. They are no longer exposed. Presubably there's a better glue, but I used common silicon caulk. Working fine so far.
JoeH found copper difficult to find in S. Calif., but it was there somewhere. As copper roofs are common here, 3'x10' sheets are a stock item. Weighs 1 lb/sq ft and works easily if you have a way to bend it.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
If you can find tempered hardboard, that would be more likely to take the weather. The thinnest plywood commonly available is 1/4, and thin plywood doesn't tend to take the weather well either.
Another option is to simply build your own door, recycling the lite from the existing door. It's a good excuse to buy some more tools.
I'd use urethane glue (Gorilla glue). A little messy, but it will outlast the house.
If you can find tempered hardboard, that would be more likely to take the weather.
That's what I used. Got 5 yrs out of it before it started to fail. Didn't have anything better to replace it, so I used it again. But now it doesn't get wet on the edges.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Sheathing the door is a cool idea, any pictures?
Building one yourself is one answer, but by the time you buy the materials and factor in your time, it could cost well in excess of a medium grade special order fiberglass door. Another option is to reframe to a standard opening.
They really make exterior doors of hardboard? Haven't seen any around these parts, seems they would fail not if, but when. Kinda like a Yugo, a disposable door.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Sheathing the door is a cool idea, any pictures?
Building one yourself is one answer, but by the time you buy the materials and factor in your time, it could cost well in excess of a medium grade special order fiberglass door. Another option is to reframe to a standard opening.
Gotta get a camera. Here's an old photo before the copper skin. You'll see why I didn't consider a special order door. Standard opening? Why would I want that? ;)
Regarding the hardboard, I thought I was buying something that would hold up. There is tempered hard board that does. I didn't get that product. Clearly got poor information from my supplier.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Is the picture before sheathing the door or after? If after, it looks great either way. Yeah, I can see why you wouldn't want to reframe it.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Is the picture before sheathing the door or after?
Before. That's a door within a door that's wide enough for tractor entrance. Plan included non-residential. The other door, around the corner, is the same size as the smaller side door, 4'x7½'. With expanses that large, a 3-0x6-8 door would have been out of scale. Those are stock sliding door lites in a wood frame. Heavy to hang, but ball bearing hinges work great.
I only sheathed the bottom third of the 3 doors. Couldn't figure how to get that arch wrapped without soldering. It wasn't deteriorating so I left it alone. Used copper that was minimally mottled from being outdoors in the rain. We like the look so I sprayed an automotive clear coat on it to preserve the appearance. Contrasts nicely with the copper siding.
Glad you liked it.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
To VaTom, Dan, NickNuke’m:
Thank you all for the suggestions and information. It seems to me that the most practical solution would be to special order the medium grade fiberglass door that Nick suggests. I’ll go to Home Depot and Lowe’s to see what brands they have in stock and how expensive would be to order one through them.
Congrats to VaTom on the terrific look of his door. It would be nice to see a picture or it after the copper cladding job.
Most of the hardboard on the market these days isn't tempered. At least not very well. Tempered hardboard has a high resin content and is really almost plastic.
Most of the hardboard on the market these days isn't tempered. At least not very well.
I'd expect you're right. Did ask the correct questions from my sheetgoods supplier (wholesale). Most certainly did not get the right product. I properly primed and painted it. As I mentioned, lasted for a few years before degradation became apparent. Didn't get around to replacing the damaged skin until it was 10 yrs old. By then I had to replace the lower interior wood. Torsion box construction.
The problem couldn't be solely the glass panel as the surrounding door (door in a door) also deteriorated. Used the same product, allegedly tempered, for rebuilding. But now it doesn't get wet. Hope I have the problem solved. PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!