Replies

1. 
   woodguy99 | Aug 06, 2005 03:03pm | #1

   Having re-flashed a stone chimney on my family's camp (Maine word for cabin/cottage) with copper, I can say that lead is a much easier material to work with around rought stones. 

   The process is to grind out a slot in the mortar, bend the edge of the flashing back about 150 degrees, tap the flashing into the slot, make some little "v" shaped pieces of flashing and tap those in to wedge the flashing in, and use mortar, hydrolic cement, or a masonry caulk to fill the seam.  If using lead, bend the flashing down and out onto the roof surface, weaving in with the shingles.  If copper, bend down, cut parallel with the roof plane, and use copper step flashing woven in with the shingles and tucked up under the chimney counterflashing.

   The tricky part is the apron flashing, the piece at the lowest elevation on the chimney.  The corners should be soldered.  I don't know of any good reference books but I'm sure there are plenty out there.

    

   Mike

1. 
   Rooftop | Aug 06, 2005 04:09pm | #2

   Thanks Mike!  I'd thought about lead... that might be the best way to go.  Most of the complication is that the joints are so random... would it ever be necessary to just buzz a groove with a diamond blade in the stone and mortor... parallel to the roof ... to tuck in the flashing?

   -Ryan

1. 
   seeyou | Aug 06, 2005 06:30pm | #3

   would it ever be necessary to just buzz a groove with a diamond blade in the stone and mortor... parallel to the roof ... to tuck in the flashing?

   That's typically the way I flash a stone chimney. Lay a 2x4 on the roof with the 3 1/2" side verticle. Use that for your guide to grind the reglet.

   If the stone is real irregular and you're using copper, bend a wide flange on the top of your flashing (2"-3") and cope it to fit the stone. I've never used this method with lead.Birth, school, work, death.....................

1. 
   Rooftop | Aug 06, 2005 06:58pm | #4

   CU-

   Great ideas ... the stone is pretty flat ... but the mortar joints are irregular.  Your 2x4 technique is what I'll use!  Thanks for the tip! -Ryan