Replies

1. 
   Tom_Moller | May 04, 2001 05:26am | #1

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   I recently used a product called TEC TA-324 Triple Flex as a trowel on moisture barrier. It's sort of green when it goes on, then dries black. It is very tough and somewhat elastic. Would be great if you happen to need black grout.
   They describe it as "high solids acrylic latex additive and a cement based powder"
   It's expensive.
   Manufacturer is H.B.Fuller. They make a number of other TEC tile products that you won't find at a big box place....maybe something to solve your situation.
   You'll need to look in the tile specialty shops to find them.
   This might help:
   TEC Specialty Products
   315 South Hicks Road
   Palatine, Illinois 60067-6972
   800-323-7407
   Good luck!

1. 
   Tom_Moller | May 04, 2001 05:31am | #2

   *Regarding wood floor...don't know if this would fit your taste or decor...might be interesting to go with the style of an outdoor deck...1/8" gap between each board...brings the outdoors in.If done right, this could be a real eye popper.

1. 
   john_sluga | May 06, 2001 05:41am | #3

   *I found it interesting that you would use silicone as an adhesive but not as a substitute for grout... But then again, I'm not sure how far the gap is between the tiles. In my back foyer project, I installed a combination of 12"X12", 12"X6" and 6"X6" ceramic tiles. I chose a couple of different designs called 'Mardi Gars' and Cobblestone'which I saw at the local Home Depot. I installed the tile onto cement board with thin set adhesive. The cement board is screwed onto 1/2" plywood at four inch intervals using dry wall screws. Tile spacing is 1/4".For the grout I used DDE"Aluminum" silicone caulking applied with a caulking gun. The finger from a leather glove was used to set the grout' to a uniform depth. Any stray remnants of silicone calk were rubbed off of the tile pieces after curing with the leather glove finger. The tile job is two years old this past March and shows to problems to date. It takes a wet mopping easily and none of the tiles have shown any damage. The texture and reflective qualities of the grout give the job an offbeat look, too.

1. 
   Ron_Teti | May 06, 2001 06:22am | #4

   *John, i dunno im just asking but why wouldnt you have used a sanded caulk. it looks just like grout same texture you cant really tell the difference I use it where the tile meets an expandable /contractable surface say in a bathroom to fill the area between the tile and the tub. Just wondering?

1. 
   Ron_Teti | May 06, 2001 06:23am | #5

   *John, i dunno im just asking but why wouldnt you have used a sanded caulk. it looks just like grout same texture you cant really tell the difference I use it where the tile meets an expandable /contractable surface say in a bathroom to fill the area between the tile and the tub. Just wondering? it might help your problem also mike have you tried sanded caulking?

2. 
   john_sluga | May 06, 2001 11:40pm | #6

   *I guess the main reason was to experiment with the texture of the silicone caulk as a grout and to see how it would hold up to foot traffic. I'm just northwest of Chicano. With our seasonal changes, I was interested in seeing how the caulk would react. Had the tiles been spaced wider than the 1/4" spacing, I would have used a sanded grout with an acrylic additive.

3. 
   mark_cadioli | May 07, 2001 01:26am | #7

   *The house moves with high windsI'd say your grout is the least of your problems...fix the cause first...bracing, bracing, bracing!!

2. 
   Mike_Hoegee | May 07, 2001 01:26am | #8

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   I am planning a project for my Gulf Coast beach house on pilings. The existing floor is two layers of plywood. The house moves with high winds! Have tiled a few areas using silicone as the adhesive and all is well except the grout, which has cracked to the point of coming out. Any thoughts for a FLEXIBLE sanded grout. Have thought about a floating wood/composite floor but no matter what the manufactures quote I don't think it will hold up to the high humidity and sand being worn into the surface.