I am soon going to begin remodeling my house. Almost all of the interior wall coverings (plaster, paneling) is going to come down. But the wood floors will stay. So I want to protect them during the demolition phase. What to use? I have heard some recommend butcher paper/craft paper, but that doesn’t seem too protective. I have seen on TV someone bring in thicker material. It looked like sheetrock (but wasn’t), seemed to be like thick cardboard. Does anyone know what that might be? Or have recommendations on what to put down on the floors to protect them?
Thanks.
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I usually use door skins.... 1/8" thick luaun mahogany plywood in either 3x7 or 4x8 sheets. Some people use masonite also. With a heavy canvas painter's tarp down on the floor and door skins over it we have a non-skid surface that is adequate for placement of rolling scaffolds, sawhorses, etc. There are some good floor protection products at dropcloth.com
Sweep the floors real good, put down kraft paper for a slip sheat, then use 1/8" or 1/4" Masonite. tape the edges down with duct tape so dirt and what-not doesnt get under the protection board and grind into the floor.
Tim
I typically cover all floors with heavy duty canvas drop cloths directly to the flooring. Then I add a layer of 1/4" luan on top in the rooms that I'm working on. This gives you all the protection you need as well as a smooth surface to shovel the debris off of.
Happy
Holidays
The GC who did my remodel uses Ram Board:
http://www.ramboard.com/index.htm
He laid down a layer of plastic (not normal poly - something different designed for this application to prevent scuffing of the floor) then the ram board with 1/4" hardboard wherever there was high traffic or heavy action. Worked great.
I take resin paper AKA builder's paper and tape it, using blue tape at edges to floor only occasionally and paper to papre at laps with paccking tape completely. a packing tape dispenser from the office supply is handy
Then I place masonite down and tape thosse edges too, so grit doesn't work between them.
Then I use a cotton drop clothe wherever theere will be exccessive crap pile up. you ould use a tarp. I t makes pickup easier.
I used to use homasote instead of the masonite, but it got to ghrowing mold after aa season of storage here in my humid limate. the masonit is on its third job now
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" have seen on TV someone bring in thicker material. It looked like sheetrock (but wasn't), seemed to be like thick cardboard. Does anyone know what that might be?"
Probably Homosote or a similar sheet good. Another option is carpet. You could probably get some old carpet from an installer. Makes a nice, padded "dropcloth".
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
It's called Upson board. We use tons of it in the film/TV industry. Every day we need to move in to a home or business with up to 200 people and a ton of equipment. The upson board has to stand up to everything, coffee, food, blood (real and fake) and and actress or director throwing something and storming off the set. Blood is always a tough stain to get out of carpets. At the end of a 16 hour day we pick it all up and put it down the next day in another landmarked building. Upson board is hard to get outside of a film/tv production area. The lumber yard near my house in New Jersey doesn't carry it, but the lumber yard near my office in New York City does.
Re: Upson boardIs this the stuff you're talking about?http://www.niagarafiberboard.com/upsonite.htm********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
That's it, but after 20 years in the film business I've only heard it referred to as Upson board.
I found that link through Google, and apparently the Upson company went belly up a while back, and some of the stuff went to Niagra.Could I ask what thickness do you normally use for hardwood floors, and about what does a sheet cost?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
We usually get a discount because we will buy a lot before a movie starts shooting and we will use it for the run of the job. Anywhere from 30 to 70 days. 1/4 inch, 4x8 sheet is $20.80 at LeNoble Lumber. http://www.lenoblelumber.com
Thanks.I see they call it "Upson" board. A couple of other questions, if you don't mind:On one site, I see this stuff is very flexible; does that mean it tends to curl on the floor unless you tape it down?Also, is the surface of the board hard enough to endure, for instance, demoing a ceiling, etc.?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
The board lays very flat even after it gets wet. We (actually them, I'm management and not aloud to touch any equipment) tape the ends together to keep people from tripping over the lip of the board. Upson is very tough stuff. I saw a 10K light, weighs about 30 pounds fall off a stand and not dent a hardwood floor in a brownstone built in 1890.
I'm probably driving your crazy with all these questions, but when you lay the Upson board on a hardwood floor, do you put anything down first -- like red rosin paper, etc.?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
No first layer, just sweep the floor and lay it down.
Thanks for your info/help.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I went to Lowes and bought a couple of reject pieces of cushion-back sheet vinyl.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
That Ram board I linked to earlier is also used in the movie industry - looks like similar stuff to the Upson.
I looked at that link, and it too looks like good stuff. When your contractor used it, did they put anything on the floors (like red rosin paper) before they laid down the Ram board?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
The first layer was some sort of plastic sheeting. Not poly though, more of a papery feel to it, and kind of a milky look. IIRC, there was a specific "down" side to it. It's what the lumber yard (Truitt & White in Berkeley) recommended.
thanks.........********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
http://www.taunton.com/store/FHArchive/FHarch_Purch.asp
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Hey Justin, at first I didn't get your link to the "purchase articles page", but now I do - mebbe. Are you suggesting one use reprints of FHB as floor protection? Blasphemy! ( Well, OK. Maybe in the birdcage.) <G>
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
LOL - touche my friend...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Actualy I have heard that their paid checks at Taunton are so big that they can use the envelopes. 3 of them will cover an average bathroom..
.
Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
My method is to clean the floor well, lay several layers of old newspaper, followed by a layer of old 1970's luan paneling demoed from a previous job. It gives you a hard surface for shoveling, and to prevent damage from dropped tools. Secure it from shifting and block dust infiltration with tape, use the blue stuff if you have to put it on a surface that'll be retained.
If you're going to pull the shoe and baseboards, do it first so the luan isn't in your way.
-- J.S.
Right now 7/16 OSB goes for less than $6 a 4'x8' sheet. It's hard to find ANY sheet good that can beat that price. Buy it to protect your floors, then dispose of it by nailing it up under your drywall and making your walls a heck of alot stronger and airtight.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I agree that OSB is the best "value" for this purpose, unless it's on the 2nd floor then I'll shell out for the 1/4" luan which weighs a lot less and is almost as good for protection. But if you nail it up before the drywall, what's left to protect the floor from the drywall goons?
A product I didn't see anyone mention is ThermaPly. It's a very dense cardboard like product about 1/8" thick. Waxy on both sides. Hold up VERY well, not effected by water/drywall mud, can throw a knife at it and it won't penetrate, comes in 4x8, 4x10, 4x12 sheets. And it's pretty cheap. Put the writing side up so as not to transfer to your floor. And yes, tape all edges...
I've used thermaply before, it works well. Easy to cut, tough, and it tapes well. Put it over visqueen or that thin foam stuff (like mudsill gasket, but in wide rolls).zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
I got a roll of this when I was doing a couple of bathroms. I had to pass through a laminate floored kitchen, a hardwood hall, and carpeted bedroom/hall. It was great, impressed the homeowner. I ordered it about 3PM one day and it was on my porch less than 24hrs later. They are only about 90 miles away but still who gets things out that quick?
http://www.dropcloth.com
I use these 24" X 24" X 1/2" thick foam rubber mats that are made for kids playrooms. Got mine at HD. They link together in any configuration and can be lifted and reconfigured when setting cabinets, or installing registers and the like.
After a slightly higher purchase price, they can be reused on project after project or used in a basement workshop. I've used the same mats on 5 homes so far.
I know this is an old thread but a question.
It seems several people put down paper and then masonite board. I know the masonite board is rough on one side and smooth on the other.
Which side do you put facing the floor? Would putting the rough side down risk damage to the floor?
Thanks!
Check out Ramboard or Floorshell. They are basically thick, dense paper. I have found it to be very durable. It will protect wood floors from most light demo/remodel jobs. It won't prevent pine floors from denting when rolling a Sub Zero fridge across it though. Masonite works well. If you use it, make sure the wood floor is spotless first, put down the sheets and immediately tape all the seams. I like the Gorilla brand duct tape for this. It is really important that no dirt or grit is under the sheets and that the sheets' edges are sealed so nothing can get underneath. I don't think paper under the masonite is helpful. The 1/8" Masonite I use is slick on both sides, but I would assume the sheets with a rough side won't hurt the floor if it is facing down. The original poster was probably seeing Homasote as a protective covering. It works but seems wasteful to me. The Ramboard I use can get used once or twice as an interior floor covering, again as ground covering for painting outside, and then recycled.
Jish
Depending on the type of job,
I use USG Fiberock floor protection paper and blue tape it down to the floor continuous around the perimeter and at all seams. I can vacuum all dust and debris up at end of day. Remove all baseboard prior if it's getting pulled.
If demo of plaster/drywall I then cover and tape 1/8" tempered Masonite (smooth both sides and lays flatter over several jobs than untempered) wall to wall.
In a lesser remodel I'll use it as runners in traffic areas taping maybe continuous runs if I'm letting it lay overnight. Otherwise I'll pull it at end of day and vacuum the paper covering.
I quit using red rosin when bleeding of the color happened after it got wet.
Never used Ramboard
the taped paper seals off the floor from fine damaging grit while the Masonite protects from tool drops, plaster falls and dragging cabinets into place. I've cut several sheets of Masonite into 32x48" pcs. Very useful size for kitchen and most room work. I'll fill in at narrower doorways with scrap.
runner drop cloths are also very useful in general remodels if sealing off the floor is not critical. Put your name on one side only and keep using them name side up. Other side stays clean and the painter doesn't have an excuse for swiping them.
^I think that's a great idea, thanks!
Some other ideas ...
Flooring guys often use a material for making a template of the vinyl sheet they;ll bring to the house. This material is basically the woven backing that is part of a vinyl floor, without the vinyl, of course.
I didn't have that available to me when I bought my house. Instead, I found a cardboard supplier, and was able to purchase sheets that were approximately 5-ft x 10-ft. I laid these over my floors, and taped the seams using the same tape you use on house wrap.