Looking for a recommendation for a brand of finish for a yellow pine kitchen floor.
“Put your creed in your deed.” Emerson
“When asked if you can do something, tell’em “Why certainly I can”, then get busy and find a way to do it.” T. Roosevelt
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Help.
Would the Minwax poly that is being discussed for the bench in the vet's office be a good choice?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
If you're asking about the Minwax Spar Urethane then the same considerations discussed there appy here. With spar varnishes you're paying for UV inhibitors that you generally do not need indoors. I've used Varathane Floor Finish on oak with good results, including in my kitchen where it has done a fantastic job of preventing water absorption and damage. I've also used it on very old doug fir, where the results were so-so. The doug fir was quite pitchy, and the pores were well filled with old stain. On that surface the fact that the poly was merely laying on top of the wood rather than being able to lock into the pores has meant that it is damaged much easier. But pine is quite a bit different, and were I you I'd wait to hear from someone who has done a yellow pine floor.
Generally, the market for polyurethanes is an active and competitive one, and usually you get what you pay for. A more expensive poly generally contains more solids, which are more expensive to the manufacturer. This is also why spar varnishes tend to be more expensive, because they include ingredients not used in standard indoor poly formulations, and which you usually don't need indoors.
Fine Woodworking did a review of waterborne polyurehanes in the December '06 issue. If you're interested in waterborne finishes it would be worth picking up.
I can't quote anything, but I seem to remember that many folks here do not recommend water-poly for floors."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Waterborne requires an extra step in preparation, raising the grain and then knocking it down so the finish doesn't raise it. I also remember a review from several years ago that stated the waterborne versions are not as hard/durable, but that was several years and the state of the art has changed in that time, and I haven't read anything recently. I do know that a number of major, responsible and credible manufacturers (including Glitsa) are now making waterborne polymer finishes. I've used waterborne in situations where I wanted a truly clear finish, as opposed to the yellowing that I've seen from every oil based poly I've ever used, but never on floors so I can't comment on that application.
"If the trout are lost, smash the state."
If you insist on using a water based poly you will need to seal the wood with a coat of dewaxed shellac. The shellac will keep the grain from being raised. BYW, check out the Waterlox website.
The people who used to do the TGI Fridays did my hardwood floors and used Moisture Cure.