I got a bid back with floor trusses and never used them before. 1’6″ floor trusses with the stairs perpendicual and against the foundation wall. There seems to be gaps in the drawings, along the foundation and I would need to built 1’6″ wall sheated to “fill in”? How are the staris attached to the trusses, just block right on? Then just box in the stair’s rim with ply? Thanks
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You got some hefty floor trusses! Your description is a bit lacking, so I'm a bit confused. But we can get started and fill in our gaps as you ponder filling in yours! Attaching the TOP of the stairs to floor trusses ... probably just use some extra plywood and OSB ... if you have the latest Fine Homebuilding, it shows you how the guy attached his stringers to the plywood and then tipped it into place and attached the plywood to the floor framing. I think I would have a tendency to install the plywood first and then set my stringers ... but I'm not a stair expert ... I've only done a few.
I don't understand what you mean by 'gaps along the foundation'. You said your stairs were against the foundation wall. Also not sure what 'rim' you refer to. If the stair is parallel to the exterior wall, the exterior wall along the stair should end directly on the sill/top of the fourndation rather than on the floor as elsewhere. Please try to explain 'harder' :)
I take it you mean filling the top of the foundation next to the stair. Kind of depends on the loads, but the best way is to build your exterior wall taller there and set it right on the foundation. Otherwise, you can get a hinge effect where the "pony wall" meets the main wall.
All of the floor trusses I have used have notch at the "rim" for a 2 x 4. This would be a case next to a stair hole as well. Again, it depends on the loads-you might need to sheath the ends of the trusses to prevent them from rolling.
I'm wondering if you have complete engineering details. A lot of time a bid from a truss company will be fairly skeletal because they don't want people to steal their engineering. The real deal comes when the trusses are actually delivered.
You bring up a good point about the hinging thing. Whe I built my house recently, I leared about this new structural hinging rule in the codes. Don't completely understand it, but the concept is simple. You cannot (by code) build a wall w/ a hinge in it like you are describing. The wall would HAVE to be built taller ... no pony wall allowed. Walls can be interrupted by/supported by structural floors, but gable end walls have to be continuous framing, not framed to 8 ft and then framed above that (Like we used to do just 20 years ago).
Back when I sold trusses, we always provided a kneewall for the ends of the house that were parallel to the floor trusses. If you got quotes they should list them. I always showed them on the layout, but other companies may not.
A phone call to the supplier should clear it up real quick.