I am lining the inside of my basement walls with EPS foam boards(the white stuff). What is the best adhesive to stick it to concrete? How about taping the joints–what is the best product to use? Or are there alternatives to this method?
As always, thanks.
Replies
I just did this, but used exp.
I don't remember what I used, but used a construction adhesvie that said that is was OK on foam. It might have been PL premium, but not sure.
Now I had a very non-standard conditiions. The wall was buckleted and supported by Ibeams. So I did not have a flat surface.
So I used enough adhesive to hold the sheets in place. Then used canned foam to seal them at the top and bottom and between sheets.
I'll assume we're building a wall infront of that foam?
I just cut the foam to friction fit ... the when that doesn't work ... a coupla clamps on the joists hold them from falling over ...
then ... build the wall as tight as possble ... squishing everything in and holding it up.
I tape my seams ... that helps hold up a coupla pieces at a time ...
I do my basement walls outta steel stud ... and the tracks are 10' ...
so all you need is 3 4x8 sheets standing at any one time ...
even though the clamps and tape will get you through most any length of wall.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
As Jeff noted - don't forget to cover the walls with a fire rated material (or, at the very least, don't invite obscure burned out power rock bands with pyrotechnical displays to play in your basement ....
"It is as hard for the good to suspect evil, as it is for the bad to suspect good."
-- Marcus Tullius Cicero, statesman, orator, writer (106-43 BCE)
What Bob said. The foam MUST be covered by drywall or another reasonable fire-blocking material.
I think that XPS foam is better for basement walls than EPS foam as it is less permeable to water vapor, and probably less likely to get waterlogged if you get some leakage.
I would use the PL polyurethane adhesive if your walls are relatively flat. My basement walls are not flat so I used expanding polyurethane foam as an adhesive , but I had to use bracing while the polyurethane set so I didn't get large bows. The advantage of the spray foam is that you can cover lots of surface area relatively quickly.
You can also use metal Z-bars to hold the foam panels to the wall,. This is a very quick method but the metal acts as a heat conductor through your panels. Maybe use sill seal under the Z-bar.
I'll second the use of steel studs. I'm using 1 1/2 inch 20 gauge metal studs so I don't lose much floor space. You can fasten the metal track directly to the concrete but if you want to avoid heat conduction and the galvanic reaction between the metal track and the concrete slab or an ACQ plate, then fasten Trex to the slab and screw your metal track to the Trex. This is one of the few good uses for Trex...
Don't forget the gypsum wall covering or other heat barrier over the foam.
Billy
I think that XPS foam is better for basement walls than EPS foam as it is less permeable to water vapor, and probably less likely to get waterlogged if you get some leakage.
So, you want to trap the moisture in the wall???You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
No way -- I didn't say that! XPS is vapor permeable but not as permeable as EPS.
Basement walls need to dry, and the only way they can dry in most climates is to dry to the inside. See http://www.buildingscience.com
http://www.buildingscience.com/resources/foundations/basement_insulation_systems.pdf
In the article they discuss the use of both EPS and XPS. The EPS will allow for better drying in some situations. But the XPS is vapor permeable.
Billy
Edited 7/12/2004 1:45 pm ET by Billy
Edited 7/12/2004 1:47 pm ET by Billy
Edited 7/12/2004 1:53 pm ET by Billy
I agree.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Here are a couple of photos FYI.
Billy