Foam vs Fiberglass in Coastal Area
Building soon in FL coastal environment. I’m getting conflicting opinions on whether to spend extra $$ for foam insulation or stay with traditional fiberglass. One school of thought is that foam fills voids so well that little or no moisture will enter. The other school contends that traditional fiberglass and wall construction will allow some air movement, and that if moisture gets into the walls it will eventually dry via minute air flow in the wall cavities, whereas it will NEVER dry with foam installed.
I’m also getting the same diverse opinions on using std drywall vs paperless drywall, with opponents of paperless saying the finish is rough AND if there’s a mold problem paperless will only hide the problem longer, ergo use std. drywall.
I need some help as these are irreversible yet critical decisions. Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
Replies
What you are getting is traditional thinking versis improved thinking.. It's always been this way and frankly there is some basis for such concerns.. Not all new technology is as developed as it should be before it's brought on the market..
However foam has been around as an insulation material since WW2 It was commonly used in whatwere called freezer panles but now are simply Called SIP's (Structural Insulated Panels)
If you use them you will have a house that is 200% stronger than stick built (using 2x4's or 2x6's) and providing superior insulation properties.. However since you are in coastal Florida I'd highly recommend ICF's instead.. (insulated Concrete forms)..
ICF's have been around since the 1970's and offer many advantages over wood construction..
First they are massively strong, rated for 200 MPH winds. A 4 hour fire rating. Provide a very fast way to build. (there really are like giant foam leggo blocks that you played with as a kid)
Eliminate completely any issue with mold. provide supurb insulational values.
Termits will never be an issue. Contact local redimix or concrete plants for a list of suppliers and some information about them along with contractors able to give competitive bids to build using them.. Or go to http://www.rewardwalls.com
(by the way they meet all code issues in your area)
Thanks. If I could use them I would, but I forgot to mention that I have to build on piers which raise the first floor 9ft above ground level. In this development they insist on piers <wood or prestressed concrete> fully enclosed with decorative break-away panels/walls, and then wood frame construction above, so I can't use ICF's unfortunately. I know someone who used them and loved the result.
It sure would massively increase construction costs to use ICF's in that location.. So then I'd next look at SIP's. I don't know where panel plants are in relation to your location so I can't advise you as to effective contractors..
Fair warning there are many contractors who are intimately familar with Stick building and darn few that are equally skilled with SIP's Since panels amount to only 1% of new home construction you might be out of luck getting competitive bids in your location.. too bad the strength of panels would be a real assest wherever the potential for high winds exists..(do check to be sure though)
Thus you are most likely left with Sprayed in foam. It does add an emense amount of strength to stick built homes and no the fears of issues with foam are unfounded..
I will say those of family and friends who have built using foam are extremely pleased with energy savings, how quiet the houses are and the structural strength of them in extremely high winds..
MY brother in law found his boiler creates too much heat. That in spite of a near doubling in size and 2x the numbers and sizes of windows.. So inspite of some winter days where temps drop to -40 he's using a water heater to heat his house..
MY neighbor reports similar results with his home. He ran his airconditioner less than 50 hours total last summer so in spite of keeping the house at a chilly 69 degrees on 90 degree days his A/C electric use was trivial.
Do understand Foam seals up houses extremely well Thus you will need to install a air exchanger in it in order to ensure good quality air indoors..
letting a house leak energy to achieve the same thing is extremely foolish. About on par to punching a small hole in a gas tank to ensure that the gas doesn't go stale..
You pay for that conditioned air you may as well keep it indoors..
letting a house leak energy to achieve the same thing is extremely foolish. About on par to punching a small hole in a gas tank to ensure that the gas doesn't go stale..
Nice analogy there!
That one struck home with me as well.Just don't let frenchies poetic license get out of hand....LOL
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for the compliment..
First - foam should not be used for moisture control. I am a fan of closed cell foam in damp environments but not for that reason. If your builder cannot build a home with proper flashing, roofing, and moisture control methods, look for another builder.
The foam is great from standpoint of controlling infiltration, resisting heat loss or gain, and it helps keep the home quieter as well. Whether the added cost is worth while to you is your own decision. My customers who can afford it never regret the decision.
You do not specify whether you are considering open celled or closed cell foam though. The closed cell has been reported to hold moisture like a sponge, and is definitely only about half the R-value of closed cell foams so compare estimates based on installed R-value, not a per-inch case.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
closed cell has been reported to hold moisture like a sponge
i think you have that backwards with open cell.
carpenter in transition
Thanks - that is right - my mind and fingers were not both typing the same thing. It is open celled that works like a sponge in the wrong environment.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
we've used the paperless in basements and while we like it, it is much rougher on the face.
basement lighting is generally dim so we haven't had issues with it.
in a bright well lighted home it will definitely need to be considered mainly due to the vast difference in texture compared to the joints.
you may end up needing to go to Level 5 finish in some areas (full spackle or skim coat entire wall)
carpenter in transition